East Face  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Jay Smith, Mark Hesse, May 1995. Season:  Shady Submitted By:  charley graham on Nov 30, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is a good route tucked out of sight on the far northern edge of the east face of the Rectory. The anchors are not visible from the ground. Begin in steep splitter fingers with feet, changing corners a couple times to gain an alcove with steep corner climbing above leading to the first anchor. 5.11, 130 ft. Pitch 2 features hard, awkward, and interesting 5.11 thin corners to another Metolius rappel anchor. It is possible but not recommended to improvise a third pitch to the summit.

Location 

Walk a couple hundred feet left of Bad Habit. Once you find yourself under the Northeast corner of the Rectory look for a steep, broken finger crack.

Protection 

Triple set of fingers to thin hands with doubles to #3 camalot.