East Face 5.7
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BETA PHOTO: Route topo for the East Face of the Shark's Fin.
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Description A fun, easy chimney sequence gets things started. The crux face moves are located mid-route. Nice steep rock leads to the anchors.
Better rock quality and better movement than the more-famous arete.
Location Climbs the center of the East face.
Protection 6 lead bolts (with 2 additional off-route bolts to the right--one of which is a classic 1/4" button-head).
The top anchor consists of 2 open shuts with mussey hooks attached (an unusual pairing).
Amy Ness on East Face.
Photo by Blitzo.
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By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
Dec 22, 2008
rating: 5.7
| Try the route without doing the chimney moves. Checks in at "tough" 5.9. :) |
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
May 4, 2009
rating: 5.6
| Might be the best the Fin has to offer. Good climbing for the grade. We went slightly right at the top past the 1/4" spinner. |
By LifeIsGood
May 15, 2010
| Again, we pulled the sissy stick out and stuck the first bolt with it. The stemming up the chimney was interesting.... :-) |
By hyadventure
From: Santa Ana
May 8, 2012
rating: 5.8-
| I'm confused! I just checked my guide book and in the text it rates this climb at 5.6, this page says the traditional rating is 5.7, but if you look at the topo in the guidebook (right above the text) it clearly labels the route .8? It felt kinda stiff for a .7 to me, so I'm going with the rating on the topo.
One of the hangers has been removed from the bolt higher up, but there is a slightly off route bolt you can clip in its place. Just remember to bring one longer draw or sling. |
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