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Sari
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East Face T 

East Face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b A3

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b A3 [details]
FA: Bill Forrest, 1960's
Page Views: 422
Submitted By: toddgordon on May 22, 2007

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Description 

The Sari is the least impressive of the three towers; The Hindu, The Mongoose, and The Sari. In Eric's Desert Rock, it is mistakenly called I 5.6;......Eric neglected to add the A3 part to the description. The climbing and protection is a bit tricky, and the pitch wanders around a bit.


Location 

Route goes up the East face, and ends on a ledge with a bolted anchor.


Protection 

Maybe a double rack of cams, a few pins.



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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 22, 2007

Ahhh yes;...how many parties were "suckered" up to this formation looking for a 5.6 I climb?...We were......Ooops;....We went up there on cold day;..snow flakes danced in the air, and we were lazy and looking for an easy, quick tower to tick. We hiked up to the formation with a minimul rack;..I mean, how hard can 5.6 I be? Once on the climb, we realized it was a tad bit harder than 5.6.....AND (Here's the worst part...)...we needed more gear, so someone had to go WAY back down the slope,back to the cars, to get more gear, and trudge WAY back up the slope to the formation...(That "someone" was me...). The pitch was a bit tedious, and wandered around a bit, but after an hour or two, I made it up the pitch. Damn Bjornstad and his 5.6 I rating. This happen to anyone else? We were lazy and wanted an easy one;...we were "punished" for our laziness.

By James Garrett
Jun 9, 2008

Yes,
I feel your pain, Todd. Almost the exact same scenario happened to us, albeit the weather was warmer. Franziska kept yelling up to me on that fateful day years ago, "We must be on the wrong route or the wrong tower!!!!"...."where is the 5.6?"
The only way I had coaxed her into a Onion Creek tower adventure was the promise of a I, 5.6 climb.....man, were we wrong. We did get to the top, though....after pounding bongs and all sorts of iron into the rock!
Nice to hear your account!

By L. Hamilton
Jul 29, 2013

Very minor historical note: Tom and Jean Ruwitch, with Leslie Hamilton and me, made an early ascent of this uninspiring formation in April 1972. We found no rap anchors or other signs so we imagined that our ascent was the first, but it sounds as if Bill got there before us.

I recall a short but awkward aid section.