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 ADVANCED
Monkey Face
Select Route:
Astro Monkey T 
Backbone, The S 
East Face T 
Just Do It S 
Monkey Off My Back S 
Monkey Space S 
North Face, The T 
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 
Pioneer Route T,S 
Rising Expectations T 
Spank the Monkey S 
West Face (Aid) T 
West Face Variation T 
West Face Variation Direct T 

East Face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b C2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b C2 [details]
FA: Kim Schmitz & Gerald Bjorkamn - summer 1964
Page Views: 3,625
Submitted By: corvegas on Feb 10, 2007

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P1 of the east face

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route also goes free at 5.13d!

P1 - C2 or 5.12c - Aid or free the crack to a sling belay this pitch eats nuts.
P2 - C2 or 5.13d - Aid the crack up past 4 bolts (replaced by Alan Watts on his free attempt). Belay from 2 brand new bolts.
P3 - 5.6 C1 or 5.10b - Aid up the bolt ladder past one old belay to a slab to the summit. Many old bolts on this pitch.

P1 & P2 link with 60m rope. This takes more gear so you might want to back clean a little.

Location 

the only crack on the east face

Protection 

clean rack to 2" heavy on the nuts


Photos of East Face Slideshow Add Photo
me on p2
me on p2

Comments on East Face Add Comment
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By Alan watts
Feb 2, 2009

No bolts were added prior to the first free ascent, but four quarter inch bolts placed by Gerald Bjorkman were replaced with 3/8" bolts
By Keenan Waeschle
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 25, 2010

Alan, you da man!!!!
By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
Feb 14, 2012

Yea.... this is NOT the only crack on the East face... Why does Mountain Proj not have any info listed for Rising Expectations (also on the East face...)