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Spire Two
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East Face T 
Jan and Jane Route T 

East Face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Herb and Jan Conn
Page Views: 2,642
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Sep 8, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Anthony Petrone climbs the final face of Spire Two...

Description 

This route mostly follows the original Conn route done in 1949. Only the 3rd pitch splits off of the first ascent line. The climb is all 5.3 or under except one 5.6 move at the beginning of the 3rd pitch. Look for a heavily trampled area in the grass on the east side of the spire.

Pitch 1: Climb up the water drainage through sometimes very large crystals. One of the coolest parts of this climb is a near vertical section in a large quartz band. The pitch ends at an obvious set of fixed anchors.

Pitch 2: Finish climbing to the top of the water drainage. The last move is the hardest, and requires a belly flop for some on to a huge belay ledge with fixed anchors.

Pitch 3: This variation is probably the standard now. Climb up the face above, using 1 bolt to get off a ledge on to the face. Make a few moves to fixed anchors at the top.The highest point is a "jump" away. If you want, carefully head over to the true summit.

To descend, rap the route. Make sure to bring 2 ropes.


Protection 

Standard Rack. Protection is sparse in places, but definitely adequate.



Photos of East Face Slideshow Add Photo
Starting up the East Face of Spire 2.  Stellar line, if a bit runout in parts.  Photo Aaron Costello.
Starting up the East Face of Spire 2. Stellar lin...
Spire 2 East Face
Spire 2 East Face
Not the East Face Route
Not the East Face Route
Brenda on the short steep face of the last pitch with the Balcony Point crack in the background.
Brenda on the short steep face of the last pitch w...
Spire Two (right) and Balcony Point (left) as seen from the International Chimney.  The East Face Route starts behind the tree in the lower left of the photo.
BETA PHOTO: Spire Two (right) and Balcony Point (left) as seen...
Unknown climbers rapping Spire 2.  June 08.
Unknown climbers rapping Spire 2. June 08.
From the top of Spire Two -- Zoe conquers the final pitch with Scott climbing behind. HJ and Susan belaying.
From the top of Spire Two -- Zoe conquers the fina...
Jay and I at the summit of Spire 2, picket fence in the background.  June 08.  Photo Aaron Costello.
Jay and I at the summit of Spire 2, picket fence i...
Rob Lewis crusin' the final moves to the top of East  <br />Face, Spire 2.
Rob Lewis crusin' the final moves to the top of Ea...
Brenda finishes up the top of the gully on Spire 2
Brenda finishes up the top of the gully on Spire 2
Rick Phillips and Gary Marowelli on top on Spire #2
Rick Phillips and Gary Marowelli on top on Spire @...
Comments on East Face Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 8, 2014
By Bob Archbold
Sep 8, 2002

You can rap the route with just one 165ft (50m) rope easily.you'll do it in three rappels. A 55m or 185 is rope left over.

By Tyson S Arp
Jul 8, 2003

Pitches 1 and 2 can be combined into one 185 foot pitch. For fun, instead of clipping the bolt on pitch 3 and climbing up the face, move right from the top of the pillar and make a very exposed step down and right to a gully that leads to the top. It may be only 5.3 but it is very exciting--one of those instant exposure kind of moves. For the descent, three short raps seem to make more sense to avoid getting a rope stuck on retrieval.

For a few more photos and info visit my website.

By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
Jul 9, 2003

I climbed this route again about a month ago. My memory must have been shady, only one rope is necessary. Even though pitches one and two can be combined, there is a very nice belay stance at the top of pitch one.

By wayniak
Jul 24, 2005
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The route starts at the very easy looking drainage with the obvious trampled dirt patch. It is NOT the water worn streak with large crystals a few hundred feet North near the high point of the saddle between Spire 2 and Spire 3 (although this climb is an ADVENTURE in itself!)East Face route is an asthetic climb w/good pro.It CAN be rapped from the top with TWO one rope 60m rappels, if you go down East from the ledge at the top of Pitch Two (viewed by going East through the short "tunnel" created by the leaning rock). This will just lead you to a rap station slung around a horn. A one rope 60m rappel gets you to the ground. This rap route undoubtably presents a greater risk of your rope getting stuck, but it's reasonable if you take care in pulling your rope. We had no issues.

By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Sep 5, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Beautiful summit... I think I could see my house back in Gillette...

By Aaron Costello
From: Rapid City, SD
Jul 1, 2008

Nice new anchors on top. Fantastic route.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 8, 2008

Hey Aaron, send me your pics and/or post em up yourself! Great climbing with you again. Superb route, my favorite spire so far. First 2 pitches easily done as one (60M rope), although it's runout to the anchors at the top of the second pitch. I guess either way it would be, but it's easy climbing anyway.

By Lspade
From: Chaska, MN
Aug 25, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

We did not want to risk getting a knot stuck in the gully so we did three rappels to the base on a 60m rope. Bring webbing for the lowest set of bolts as they do not have any chains on them.

By Lspade
From: Chaska, MN
Jul 10, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This route is known as Spire 2 by the locals. Quick, easy, and great views.

By Brian Ahlers
Jul 21, 2013

I did this route today and the 2nd belay station had some pretty legit webbing and rappel rings on it. Other than that the anchors were in pretty usable shape.

Sweet route.

By Gokul
Jul 8, 2014

I found the pitch 3 description somewhat misleading. Here's how I'd describe it:

Pitch 3: From the bolted anchors go up the chimney via the wide crack to a large chockstone above. The face above this is protected by a bolt - climb up past the bolt to the anchors at the top of the lower summit. There's an easy walk-across to the true summit, with better views of spires 3 and 4. There are also rap anchors here for a double-rope rap. To rap the route with a single rope, step back down to the lower summit and use the chains there.