East Face, South Side  5.4

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Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.4 [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  Kaner on May 24, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Route, as seen from summit of first section of 4th...

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Description 

Hike up Royal Arch trail to base of 4th Flatiron that rests trailside. Continue just past base of 4th Flatiron and take 1st uphill you can towards Tangen Creek and into the incredibly fun spiral cave staircase.

Above the staircase, follow a very thin and bushwhacky climber trail 50 feet uphill (west) until you're at the base of section 2 of 4th Flatiron.

On the right half, find an obvious OW 1-2' dirty yet polished crack/ drainage gully down the face of the 4th.

Go up crack and surrounding slab, breaking left onto thinner face moves at pitch 1 crux (more comfortable while on rope, we were simul-climbing). Partner ran out of gear and slung some horns and got a solid belay piece about 80m up on nearly flat 4th class terrain.

The second pitch (we simulclimbed a long 1st pitch) ends at a grassy break with an easy walk off to the right (north).

From here we followed Excellent Crack (5.8) over a small roof to another grassy break and a walk-off. You could work up and left to continue to the 4th's summit.

Protection 

Light Flatiron rack including tri-cams and slings for horns and mini arches.

Photos of East Face, South Side Slideshow

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Turkey Vulture skimming inches above the face	Robby coming up thru the spiral cave staircase.	Robby getting into the crack gully on the 4th.
Crack. Crux is near top of visible rock at small ...	Great views of the Royal Arch. The turkey vulture...	Robby at the 2nd belay.