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Fourth Flatiron
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Arc de Triumph S 
East Face, Extra Credit Summit T 
East Face, North Side T 
East Face, South Side T 
East Face/4th Flatiron T 
Excellent Crack T 
Jester T 
Lower South-East Gully T 
No Balls At All 

East Face, South Side 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,363
Submitted By: Kaner on May 24, 2008

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Robby coming up thru the spiral cave staircase.

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Hike up Royal Arch trail to base of 4th Flatiron that rests trailside. Continue just past base of 4th Flatiron and take 1st uphill you can towards Tangen Creek and into the incredibly fun spiral cave staircase.

Above the staircase, follow a very thin and bushwhacky climber trail 50 feet uphill (west) until you're at the base of section 2 of 4th Flatiron.

On the right half, find an obvious OW 1-2' dirty yet polished crack/ drainage gully down the face of the 4th.

Go up crack and surrounding slab, breaking left onto thinner face moves at pitch 1 crux (more comfortable while on rope, we were simul-climbing). Partner ran out of gear and slung some horns and got a solid belay piece about 80m up on nearly flat 4th class terrain.

The second pitch (we simulclimbed a long 1st pitch) ends at a grassy break with an easy walk off to the right (north).

From here we followed Excellent Crack (5.8) over a small roof to another grassy break and a walk-off. You could work up and left to continue to the 4th's summit.

Protection 

Light Flatiron rack including tri-cams and slings for horns and mini arches.


Photos of East Face, South Side Slideshow Add Photo
Robby at the 2nd belay.
Robby at the 2nd belay.
Crack.  Crux is near top of visible rock at small shaded roof.  We went left onto the face.
Crack. Crux is near top of visible rock at small ...
Turkey Vulture skimming inches above the face
Turkey Vulture skimming inches above the face
Route, as seen from summit of first section of 4th Flatiron, is shown in pink.  Excellent Crack is in blue.
Route, as seen from summit of first section of 4th...
Great views of the Royal Arch.  The turkey vulture is cruising on right side of pic.
Great views of the Royal Arch. The turkey vulture...
Robby getting into the crack gully on the 4th.
Robby getting into the crack gully on the 4th.

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