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 ADVANCED
Finger Flatiron
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East Face Right/Finger Flatiron 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 440', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: R. Rossiter, solo, 1988 (???)
Page Views: 340
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 17, 2003

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  • Description 

    This route begins nearly the same as for the standard East face.

    P1 (5.6, 60M) Start face-climbing near the small bolt-on "Mallory Cave" placard and climb up though a notch through an overhang, some 40-50 feet up. Continue up and right to the right most edge of the continuous face, staying left of the left-facing dihedral. You could work futher right (north) but the rock there is trashy and discontinuous. As you climb upward, you will see where the rock on the far right side ends. After almost 60 M you will be climbing up some broken rock to the right hand edge of the "finger" of this Flatiron. Belay after 60M. on a sheflf or int he dish just left (south) of a thin rib of rock.

    P2 (5.7 "?", 70M) Step up and right around a left-facing feature onto a 2-3M wide "rib" of rock that faces east. This rock is mostly good, but there is a little lichen and crumble here or there. Protect in a vertical crack up and left after passing the remains of a tiny "Bonzai" tree, then continue to climb up and to the right. Protect whenever possible, as you will not have the opportunity later and may well wish you had put it in when it was available. After perhaps 60', you will be stepping out right on the arete formed by the right margin of this rib and wondering if the ground to the north is less than twice the distance from you as your last piece. Continue climbing up to the shoulder of the rock, and then up and left ont he shoulder to the summit. Just feet below the summit, there is a good beloay bowl. If you are on a 60M rope, you will have to have an intermediate belay or a little simul-climbing. A 70M rope [should] just make it.

    To descend, rap NW from the station on the true summit.

    Protection 

    The Flatiron can be protected reasonably with one set of cams from small to fist-sized. Nuts or tricams could be taken as a backup or to add a few placements... but if you are not comfortable here with just a little pro, you should climb something else.The slabby crux of this route comes after a 40' runout. In the event of a crux-fall, you would more likely smack the ground ont he north side of the Flatiron than you will be stopped by your last pro.


    Comments on East Face Right/Finger Flatiron Add Comment
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    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Dec 22, 2004

    Definitely staying R is not the way to start. Rock is marginal & not worthwhile. Stay L to start. Not as bad as the rating might suggest, though, as always with Flatiron slabbin', fallin' is not recommended. 1.49 stars
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 2, 2005
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

    We climbed this today on a busy Sunday and although the climb was deserted there were tons of families with kids making the voyage to Mallory Cave. Any large rock you knock off could kill one of these people, and it is probably a good idea to stay off this route when there are so many people below. We were super-careful and dropped nothing larger than a few crusts of lichen, but the responsibility was weighty.

    I was able to get pro every 20' on the crux pitch, but this involved a lot of wandering around. For example there is a great pocket about 10' down and left from the crux section where you look down the N Face, and 10' after the crux if you detour straight left 10' you can get in another good cam. I agree with Leo the climbing does not seem all that difficult and 5.7 is generous, but at least it is not sandbagged.
    By Dave J
    Mar 22, 2007

    Don't start that far right or you'll end up in a tree-filled gully.