East Face Right/Finger Flatiron  5.7 X

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 440 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  R. Rossiter, solo, 1988 (???) Submitted By:  Tony B on Feb 17, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>> The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: Ridge Two Ridge Three Ridge Four Achaen Prnouncement Back Porch Argonaut Dreadnought North Ridge Bear Creek Spire Details. All East Face routes on the following formations are closed 1 April to 1 October (routes on the North, South & West Faces remain open): The Hand Mallory Flatironette Shark's Fin Finger Flatiron The following routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September: Sunnyside One East Face Left East Face Right Details. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

This route begins nearly the same as for the standard East face.

P1 (5.6, 60M) Start face-climbing near the small bolt-on "Mallory Cave" placard and climb up though a notch through an overhang, some 40-50 feet up. Continue up and right to the right most edge of the continuous face, staying left of the left-facing dihedral. You could work futher right (north) but the rock there is trashy and discontinuous. As you climb upward, you will see where the rock on the far right side ends. After almost 60 M you will be climbing up some broken rock to the right hand edge of the "finger" of this Flatiron. Belay after 60M. on a sheflf or int he dish just left (south) of a thin rib of rock.

P2 (5.7 "?", 70M) Step up and right around a left-facing feature onto a 2-3M wide "rib" of rock that faces east. This rock is mostly good, but there is a little lichen and crumble here or there. Protect in a vertical crack up and left after passing the remains of a tiny "Bonzai" tree, then continue to climb up and to the right. Protect whenever possible, as you will not have the opportunity later and may well wish you had put it in when it was available. After perhaps 60', you will be stepping out right on the arete formed by the right margin of this rib and wondering if the ground to the north is less than twice the distance from you as your last piece. Continue climbing up to the shoulder of the rock, and then up and left ont he shoulder to the summit. Just feet below the summit, there is a good beloay bowl. If you are on a 60M rope, you will have to have an intermediate belay or a little simul-climbing. A 70M rope [should] just make it.

To descend, rap NW from the station on the true summit.

Protection 

The Flatiron can be protected reasonably with one set of cams from small to fist-sized. Nuts or tricams could be taken as a backup or to add a few placements... but if you are not comfortable here with just a little pro, you should climb something else.The slabby crux of this route comes after a 40' runout. In the event of a crux-fall, you would more likely smack the ground ont he north side of the Flatiron than you will be stopped by your last pro.