East Face Of the Robert's Horn
||Ice, Snow, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1200', Grade IV
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c WI3+ [details]|
|Season: ||Winter (early freezes w/ minimal snow in November is ideal)|
|Page Views: ||2,546|
|Submitted By: ||Orphaned on Jan 8, 2008|
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BETA PHOTO: What the lower pitches of ice looked like as of No...
P1- Climb up a left facing shallow runnel with the occasional step. We protected it with KB's and a stubby. Belay on nice ledge. W3 100+
P2-( 2 options). Option 1- Climb the thin, steep smear on the left with little to no protection to a nice ledge and better ice. W?
Option 2- Climb out right around the corner on a nice foot ledge. From here find the path of least resistance pounding pins up a low angle rock face, aim for a flake in a right facing corner (this took an OK nut). Mix your way to the lip and (hopefully) good ice and a belay. 5.8 W3 120ft.
P3. Climb up a good low angle ice ramp to the snowfield and dig yourself in. W3. short
P4-9. Depending on your conditions this could be a snow wallow or a cruise up frozen crust. The view from the ridge is really worth while. As you can see the AF/LCC ridge-line on your right and the upper reaches of Timp. on your left.
Descent: We walked down the north-east ridge eventually dropping down some steep bush lined gulley's to find the Aspen Grove Trail.
Park at the Aspen Grove Trailhead. From the parking lot you can see the Roberts Horn. Find well traveled path leading you west. You will see some ice falls mountainproject.com/v/utah/was...
on your right as you approach. Keep following the switch back trail as it eventually brings you from the valley up to the north ridge where it will then cut back under the Roberts Horn itself. This approach AND route would be best approached in low avalanche conditions. If the snow is too deep it wouldn't be worth the time as most of the route would be under snow. Approach time: 45 min to 1hr depending on how deep the snow is.
A few thin pins, (1) baby angle (1) medium LA. A couple of screws (stubbies helped us) and a rack of nuts. Slings.
By Glenn Merrill
From: Provo, Utah
Jan 20, 2009
When did you climb this? month?
Oct 26, 2009
ticked a line back in Nov. of '00 directly above the switch-backs on the left side of photo, with the features climbed being out of the frame to the left. It was the most obvious line from the parking lot at the time.
3 pitches. first being a right leaning gulley with good sticks in ice WI2+, followed by a second pitch of sticking frozen alpine buns in a corner system M3-4, followed by 5-10 minutes of mountaineering up and left to a short (50-ish feet?) but wide curtain WI3+. slings for the ocassional alpine tree/shrub, pins for the broken cracks/fractures, and an ice screw or two for early season skill-honing on the 3rd pitch. walk off left for the descent. glissade to speed things up.