This route is the Northernmost route on the East Face of the First. It starts about 100+ feet to the right and up from the start of the Standard East Face route. The route wanders up just right of a large gully (East Face Gully). The rock is good although a bit hard to protect (as all East face routes tend to be).
To get onto the East face, find a large flake that allows an easy traverse East and proceed straight up the face finding the path of least resistance. There is an old piton in the first pitch. From there, the route wanders left and right a couple of times until it reached the North Arete just North of the start of that route.
Downclimb to the West and hike South or climb up again some 50 feet North and do the North Arete route, 5.4.
Standard Flatiron rack.
BETA PHOTO: Variation (red) to East Face North Side.
BETA PHOTO: Water-worn chimney above normal start for EF North...
BETA PHOTO: This is the "horizontal horn" that marks the start...
|Comments on East Face North Side/1st Flatiron
|By Dan Franke|
Jul 6, 2005
Climbed this one last weekend, fun route, best if done with a 60m rope.P1- Started at the right side of a big flake, followed seams and grooves for 180 feet. 5 pieces of protection was all I could place, some of which were contrived. Belay set up just left of blobby feature in photo, at adequate flake with baby tree.P2- Headed up open slab past tree seen in photo, continued up until reaching bottom-most of cluster of trees, one of which appears to be dying cedar. 185 feet, 3 pieces of pro all I could place.P3- Resist tempting gully at right, pass main cluster of trees on their left side. No real pro after passing trees, however climbing gradually gets easier as summit attained. Approximately 100 feet.Scramble down boulders 15-20 feet on backside to dirt.Highly recommend 200 foot rope if you want to belay from good trees or cracks.
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Nov 6, 2005
I climbed this last Friday for the first time, the route was really enjoyable. This was my first multi-pitch free solo, and I was cool headed the whole time. I found that the efficiency of being alone is amazing, especially not having to haul in gear. Anyway the route is pretty cool for anyone [whether] it is your [first] multi-pitch lead or free solo. Also I encountered 2 bolts with SMC hangers that were pretty much in line with each other, was I on route? [Probably] not, I always get off route.
Once at the top, I walked off and up hill about 50 feet to the northwest arete and climbed it to the top which was also a quite enjoyable route. I proceded to down climb the south east corner and back to my car.
All said it was a great day, I soloed 3 routes in the same time it has usually taken me to climb Zig Zag 5.7 with a rope and partner (not [implementing] simu-climbing). Also 2 of the routes were on sight. Car to Car 3 hours.
|By Joey Wolfe|
Oct 25, 2007
I linked this to what i thought was called "the Sky line Traverse"(actually "North Arete") all free solo. Makes for a great day out!
|By Ralph Bodenner|
Nov 23, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Soloed this today, starting with the smooth chimney/cave at the end of the approach trail. You can climb out of the chimney to the left and stand on top of a chockstone, then exit up to a gully on the right. From here (rap slings nearby), I moved left onto the face and, after some flaky slab traversing, met up with a crack that had a well-traveled look. Fun routefinding between featured sections and cracks to the ridge.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Overall a fun and clean route reminiscent of the first pitch of the Direct East Face for its edges rather than jugs. I thought the start coming in from the left side of a short corner was the crux, and probably 5.6.
|By Forrest L.|
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
I think started near the "official" start and went roughly straight up. This puts you closer to the far right side than onlined on MP. It was a bit harder and would have been mostly unprotected if I had brought a rope and partner.