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Deviation, Lower
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East Face, Lower Deviation 

East Face, Lower Deviation 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 136
Submitted By: George Bell on Oct 1, 2008
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Description 

This face looks fun but the rock is friable and it is scary if you're expecting a friendly continuation of the 3rd Flatiron. There is virtually no protection.

In general, the farther right you are on this face, the easier it is.

Eds. note, the rating has been changed to reflect input from climbers below.


Location 

For the standard route, start in the middle of the face and follow a ramp up and right, then back left to the summit.


Protection 

Very little is available. There is a piton ~75 feet up.



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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 1, 2008

We attempted a route on the far left side of this face. About 75 feet up is a belay stance with an ancient piton. There is very little to back the piton up.

Above the next 40 feet look tricky, but are probably only about 5.8. It's not clear if there will be any protection. Rather than risk a lead fall onto the piton, we retreated.

By neil chelton
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 21, 2010

I also attempted a route on the left side of the east face. The guidebook explains this goes at 5.0, so I just wandered up there without a rope. After about 70 feet, I encountered surprisingly hard moves on crumbling rock, this felt at least 5.8, not 5.0. I also retreated. Has anyone climbed this?