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Deviation, Lower
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East Face, Lower Deviation T 

East Face, Lower Deviation 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: George Bell on Oct 1, 2008

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Description 

This face looks fun but the rock is friable and it is scary if you're expecting a friendly continuation of the 3rd Flatiron. There is virtually no protection.

In general, the farther right you are on this face, the easier it is.

Eds. note, the rating has been changed to reflect input from climbers below.

Location 

For the standard route, start in the middle of the face and follow a ramp up and right, then back left to the summit.

Protection 

Very little is available. There is a piton ~75 feet up.


Comments on East Face, Lower Deviation Add Comment
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 1, 2008

We attempted a route on the far left side of this face. About 75 feet up is a belay stance with an ancient piton. There is very little to back the piton up.

Above the next 40 feet look tricky, but are probably only about 5.8. It's not clear if there will be any protection. Rather than risk a lead fall onto the piton, we retreated.
By neil chelton
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 21, 2010

I also attempted a route on the left side of the east face. The guidebook explains this goes at 5.0, so I just wandered up there without a rope. After about 70 feet, I encountered surprisingly hard moves on crumbling rock, this felt at least 5.8, not 5.0. I also retreated. Has anyone climbed this?
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2014

Didn't read this until after I headed up there. When I hit the worst of the crumbling rock at about a meter below the overlap, I turned around and down-climbed the crumbling crap below me back to the base.
The climbing isn't HARD per se. I'd probably run right up it on a rope., but there remains the question of the safety of soloing on this stuff. Roach called the formation "scruffy and unpleasant", and I'd say that's about right.