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California
> Sierra Eastside
> Mammoth Lakes Area
> Lake George
> Crystal Crag
> Other Alpine Routes
East Face, Central Gully
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British Mod. Snow
Avg: 3.1 from 7
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Routes in Other Alpine Routes
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Aretes of Crystal Crag direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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East Face, Central Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Mod. Snow |
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South Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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West Face T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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| Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Preston Rhea - 4.10.12 |
| Page Views: | 4,225 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Preston Rhea on Dec 25, 2013 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
The route name accurately describes the route in full: climb the central gully on the east face of Crystal Crag. Beyond the boring name and description, it is a fine winter route on a fun and easily accessible peak. The first known ascent was done in winter conditions so the route description will reflect that.
The route starts immediately with a short step of steep though blocky and moderate rock climbing (5.7). The step gives way to lower angle slabs with more of a "mixed" quality. Above the slabs the upper snowfield can be readily seen. Take a more or less straight line to the summit avoiding rock bands where needed to the south (climber's left).
The route starts immediately with a short step of steep though blocky and moderate rock climbing (5.7). The step gives way to lower angle slabs with more of a "mixed" quality. Above the slabs the upper snowfield can be readily seen. Take a more or less straight line to the summit avoiding rock bands where needed to the south (climber's left).
Location
The route starts in the gully immediately south (looker's left) of the Schoolboy Buttress. On the right side of the gully is the sport climb Bagpipe, an 8 bolt, 11a that follows a prominent blunt arete left of an overhanging face.
To descend, use the West Face or South Arete routes on Crystal Crag, both in the summer are rated 3rd class.
To descend, use the West Face or South Arete routes on Crystal Crag, both in the summer are rated 3rd class.
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