East Face Center
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Mountain Guides, CET Neva, St. Petersburg, Russia
East Face Center – first ascent
3285 ì – Start
3605 ì – Summit
P1. 5.8. Start in the center of the East Wall at the distinct overhanging boulder on the left side of the trail. Climb under the room through the series of small and large overhangs and overhanging blocks (65 ft). Continue work right and up in the crack and blocky slabs, then straight up towards the large roof. We found an also stopper here but no more traces further on the route. Belay on small ledge (several horizontal and vertical cracks, stoppers, small cams). 65 ft.
P2. 5.11. Crux. Climb dihedral with the vertical crack up beneath the large (6 ft) overhang. Work through this roof by moving up and right with the delicate transition onto the small diagonal ledge. We placed a bolt (Petzl body is left) here but it might be possible to use a small crack to place a protection. Finish this pitch by climbing the vertical face to the grassy ledge. 130 ft.
P3. 5.10. Traverse the ledge to the vertical crack and climb this crack to the ledge with two trees. One bolt is left. 100 ft.
P4. 5.8. Climb straight up to the large ledge with trees. Smooth slabby faces. 100 ft.
P5. 5.7. Work around the large black overhang by climbing on the ledge right and up to the dihedral. 80 ft.
P6. 5.10+. Climb one dihedral, then the second dihedral up with the exit to the left on the sloppy ledge with diagonal crack. 150 ft.
P7. 5.9. Climb up and left through two diagonal cracks to a less steep rocks, then on the large ledge under summit bastion. Belay on the pedestal. 180 ft.
P8. 5.9+. Straight up, slightly left of large dihedral through flakes, slight overhanging rock and then to less steep rocks. 190 ft.
P9. 5.6. Climb easy rocks to the summit (joining classic North Face route). 135 ft.
09-13-09. We worked on the first pitch and half (130 ft) under the crux roof (2 hours) and left a fixed rope.
09-14-09. We used this fixed rope and climbed the rest of the route in 7 hours.
Standard rack, two bolts.
After climbing the crux roof (P2).
BETA PHOTO: Schematics of the route.