A 6 pitch line leading up striking splitter cracks. There are at least two starts possible, before joining at P3.
P1/P2 - Follow the large left-facing dihedral with orange rock on the right, and grey on the left. The crack is wide, but protects well. 5.8-5.9
P1 - Aim for the clean white left-facing corner to the left of the long orange, traditional start. One long pitch gets you up into the perfect finger crack and to a small stance below a chimney. Save yellow alien sized cams for the last 20 feet. 5.10b
P2 - A few well-protected chimney moves lead up to a horizontal break on the face above. Cut your feet loose and swing out wildly to the right, follow the crack up and right to join the original start in the major corner. 5.9
P3 - Up The lower angle dihedral with face climbing and flakes. Belay before the route forces you to move left. 5.7
P4 - Up the dihedral to a blind leftward step-across move. Keep working left to a ledge below a thin-hands splitter. 5.8
P5 - Up the obvious crack, going from .75" to 4" to a small ledge and bolted belay. 5.10
P6 - Continue up the 4" crack, using face features and the corners, and eventually landing out on top next to the summit block.
From Burgundy Col, descend down a short snow step and traverse south below the East Face of Burgundy spire, over a small snowy rib, and to the obvious east side of Chianti.
Descent is made via rappelling the route on fixed anchors. Two ropes are recommended, one might be possible. Generally descend to the rappeller's right.
Gear to 4" with doubles from yello alien to #4 C4 camalot.
Ice axe will be handy for most of the year, all gear can be stashed at the base of the climb.
Following the top of P1 - Left Side Start.
Exiting the chimney on p2 of the left-side start.
|By Keenan Waeschle|
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 1, 2011
you probably want crampons to go along with the ice ax. that snow pitch off the col is pretty damn steep.
Sep 16, 2013
Climbed this (excellent) route on 9-14-13. Some useful beta: There was running water available at many points along the approach as well as directly below the route. Axe seemed mandatory for the approach/descent, but crampons weren't necessary on the day we climbed it (sunny and warm). We did the left side start, but broke it up into two pitches, which is how I would do it next time as well (due to rope drag issues, primarily). Second pitch of the left start was the crux of the route for us. Strenuous but good fun.