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> Chianti Spire
East Face / Rebel Yell
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.8 from 89 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Jim Nelson and Carl Dietrich 1986 |
Page Views: | 19,638 total · 104/month |
Shared By: | blakeherrington on Sep 17, 2008 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
A 6 pitch line leading up striking splitter cracks. There are at least two starts possible, before joining at P3.
Traditional start:
P1/P2 - Follow the large left-facing dihedral with orange rock on the right, and grey on the left. The crack is wide, but protects well. 5.8-5.9
Left Variation:
P1 - Aim for the clean white left-facing corner to the left of the long orange, traditional start. One long pitch gets you up into the perfect finger crack and to a small stance below a chimney. Save yellow alien sized cams for the last 20 feet. 5.10b
P2 - A few well-protected chimney moves lead up to a horizontal break on the face above. Cut your feet loose and swing out wildly to the right, follow the crack up and right to join the original start in the major corner. 5.9
P3 - Up The lower angle dihedral with face climbing and flakes. Belay before the route forces you to move left. 5.7
P4 - Up the dihedral to a blind leftward step-across move. Keep working left to a ledge below a thin-hands splitter. 5.8
P5 - Up the obvious crack, going from .75" to 4" to a small ledge and bolted belay. 5.10
P6 - Continue up the 4" crack, using face features and the corners, and eventually landing out on top next to the summit block.
Traditional start:
P1/P2 - Follow the large left-facing dihedral with orange rock on the right, and grey on the left. The crack is wide, but protects well. 5.8-5.9
Left Variation:
P1 - Aim for the clean white left-facing corner to the left of the long orange, traditional start. One long pitch gets you up into the perfect finger crack and to a small stance below a chimney. Save yellow alien sized cams for the last 20 feet. 5.10b
P2 - A few well-protected chimney moves lead up to a horizontal break on the face above. Cut your feet loose and swing out wildly to the right, follow the crack up and right to join the original start in the major corner. 5.9
P3 - Up The lower angle dihedral with face climbing and flakes. Belay before the route forces you to move left. 5.7
P4 - Up the dihedral to a blind leftward step-across move. Keep working left to a ledge below a thin-hands splitter. 5.8
P5 - Up the obvious crack, going from .75" to 4" to a small ledge and bolted belay. 5.10
P6 - Continue up the 4" crack, using face features and the corners, and eventually landing out on top next to the summit block.
Location
From Burgundy Col, descend down a short snow step and traverse south below the East Face of Burgundy spire, over a small snowy rib, and to the obvious east side of Chianti.
Descent is made via rappelling the route on fixed anchors. Two ropes are recommended, one might be possible. Generally descend to the rappeller's right.
Descent is made via rappelling the route on fixed anchors. Two ropes are recommended, one might be possible. Generally descend to the rappeller's right.
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