East Face / Der Freischutz 5.0
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Erin, 3, near the crux on one possible variation o...
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Description To reach the East face route, follow the Mallory Cave trail as it switchbacks between Dinosaur Rock and Der Zerkle. The trail will pass within a few of the East face once you are West of Dinosaur Rock (Der Freischutz is West of Dinosaur Rock). Start at the base of the East face next to the dihedral formed by blocks on the North side of the Overture and Freischutz. Head up following the line of least resistance on the left of a gully for some 200 feet. Negotiate some large blocks via cracks at the top of the gully and head right for the summit. Descent - downclimb the Free Shot route or scramble down some 30 feet (5.2 awkward) to the North and East via a V groove.
Protection Standard rack.
Hike down from trail to start of climb is the hard...
| Naoki's last hold on the first pitch.
| BETA PHOTO: View of Freischutz from green water tower near NCA...
| Happy Joan after completing four and final pitch.
| BETA PHOTO: Guidebook's alcove start to E face, however less d...
| BETA PHOTO: N side downclimb crux section (blind but good hold...
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| Comments on East Face / Der Freischutz |
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By Alan C Oct 1, 2006
| Climbed this route with Colorado Mountain Club (Chris, Naoki, Michele, Joan and myself) in two rope teams and four pitches. It was a wonderful day, warm, no wind, and sunny skies. DIA was clearly visible. Our line up to summit ranged was mostly 5.0 and class 4 although we did find some 5.3-5.4 crux moves on the later pitches. In many places the rock is frazzled and I had a hold break off in my hand. The rap down requires some skill as the rock as the desired path, the fall line, and the rocks do not match up well. Down climbing is also possible as described. Alan C |
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