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Cleopatra's Needle
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Cleo's Needle Southwest Dihedral 
Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib 
East Comfort Route 
East Dihedral 
Northwest Side 
Southeast Arete 

East Dihedral 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
Page Views: 912
Submitted By: schuster on Jul 2, 2010
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taken from ground looking up at the top


the hardest part is about 10 feet after you begin your climb. make your way to the first ledge which is about 15-20 feet from the base. next make your way up about a 6 foot face, and finally the final face to the top. decent hand and foot placements most of the way to the top. this is a climb that me and my buddy's will continue to do. it is an extremely fun climb, well worth the hike to climb.


the route is on Cleopatras needle. #52/53 in the guidebook. the reason i put 2 numbers is because there are 2 variations to do this climb. a crack to the right that finishes on the southeast side route. the easiest way to get to the needle is hike on the west bluff trail from the boat landing when you get to a little switchback in the trail look for a bench and head towards the lake. you will than be able to see Cleos needle and should be able to find an access route down.


i had 10 quick draws and 2 full sets of nuts. for most of the placements i used mainly mid range nuts, size 3 to 7. there is a really nice bolt on top of the climb that is stainless and swivels around, this makes it nice so you can repel down on any side. it seamed in great condition, i am a bigger guy and it held me no problem.

Photos of East Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
view from top
view from top
base of climb
base of climb
looking down
looking down
view up from the first ledge
view up from the first ledge
downclimbing to repel
downclimbing to repel
Comments on East Dihedral Add Comment
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By nooky brown
Jul 3, 2010

Is this really a 3 pitch rte?

By Dan Pfaff
Jul 10, 2010

Must be a typo. This is a 2 pitch climb.

By schuster
Jul 13, 2010

yeah sry it was a typo! it could be done as a 2 pitch if you wanted to but it can be done as a single pitch.