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East Wall
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East Corner 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: TM Herber, Bob Kamps 1969
Page Views: 2,938
Submitted By: Salamanizer on Mar 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Description 

This is a under appreciated corner of rock that doesn't see the traffic that it deserves. The line is clean thin technical and well protected. The grade deters most people I'm sure but if you can climb 5.10a you can climb this route. The crux is a short mantle over a bulge, a two move wonder. The rest is no harder than .10a. You can easily pull on gear over the bulge if you decide you can't do it. Bring small gear. After you climb over the crux bulge/roof, continue up about 40ft and climb out of the corner when the crack begins to disappear. Two bolts await.

Location 

Climb any number of routes to reach the corner alcove. My recommendation is to climb Preparation H and traverse out left on the ledge at the first belay into the corner. The original route starts in a 5.8 crack to the left of Haystack called Micro Brew. The best way down is to walk off the top like most routes on East Wall.

Protection 

Cams 1-2ea .5"-3" Nuts 1set.


Comments on East Corner Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 9, 2014
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Sep 4, 2007

This really is a fine route and worth doing, even if you have to aid the crux. The corner leading up to the roof is fun and sustained slick corner work around .9 or .10a.

The first pitch is worth doing as well, I thought it was pretty interesting, and a challenging .9.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
May 12, 2008

also, I'd supplement that gear rack with more small stuff. Double blue and green aliens would be really nice to have.
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
May 14, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A beautiful line. The supertopo guide lists microbrew as a thin crack traversing in from the right.

For the first pitch I did a mediocre 5.7 directly up to the ledge between microbrew and Haystack. It was ok but dirty in a few places. Also the pro got sparce just below the ledge so I did a little traverse out right on the face and then back to the ledge.

The 2nd pitch corner felt harder than the .10a that everyone is talking about to me but the roof felt more .11a like. Make what you will of that. I agree with caughtinside about the small gear and would even recommend triples in the green and yellow aliens. I usuallly scoff when a route says doubles on nuts but I used up every single one of mine on this beautiful pitch.

I also belayed about 10ft up from the old 1/4inch bolts on small hand size pieces and could see the follower alot better.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
May 21, 2008

Hey Karsten, that corner leading up to the roof is thin, polished and pretty insecure feeling, I wouldn't argue with someone who said it was .10a+. heh. Especially if the grass is thick in the crack. I think I had the first ascent of the season in 07, and trying to rand smear in the corner, crushing grass and getting the rubber wet makes it tougher!

Old 1/4" bolts? I don't remember them being bad. YOu're talking about the double bolt station shared with pop bottle, up the corner and just left?
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
May 24, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I could have swore they were 1/4 inch but then again I was a little spent and the wind was really kicken up that day at the top. Plus aren't 1/4 inch bolts all bomber??? ;}
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
May 29, 2008

Rules of thumb:

1/4": bad. 3/8": good. 1/2": excellent. 5/8": sandstone (and still crossing fingers!) or used to hold buildings to their foundations in earthquake retrofits.

1/4" bolts are not a standard anymore, they're usually somewhat rusted out at this point, and look like they're a little bent.
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
May 31, 2008

Was responding in general terms, and hopefully to dispel the question of whether or not 1/4" bolts are bomber (NO!). I have no idea if the bolts on the top of p2 are 1/4". It might be worth looking into. Anyone else know?
By Nat Lim
Jul 11, 2008

Climbed this route last month, the belay has 2 solid 3/8" and a lone 1/4", which looks pretty solid...it holds, so that has to count for something...
By Anders
From: San Francisco
Jul 6, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

Just attempted this yesterday. The corner on the second pitch is very thin and balancey before the roof. Supertopo calls it .11b and Falcon calls it 10d, I'm inclined to agree the former. In any case, it is a stunning and inspiring line with good, albeit thin, gear.
By Phil Esra
Aug 1, 2011

Bring lots of little cams and nuts. I didn't place anything bigger than a .75 camalot. Traversing right under the roof for 5 feet or so (to a drilled pin) puts you on Out to Lunge, 10d--turn the roof then get back in the corner. Getting to the roof is definitely harder than p1 of sinbad/herbert or surreal pillar direct. A 3.5-star route.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Sep 14, 2012

If you mistake P1 of East Corner for P1 of Haystack you will end up wondering why P2 of East Corner seems really, really hard for 5.8! Retreating from the crux overhang and finishing up P2 of Pop Bottle seemed like a good idea.
By Peter Valchev
From: Truckee, CA
Apr 23, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The corner is one of the best pitches at the leap! Warning: it can be running with water early season.. making it very full value (crux felt like Moratorium wet). I don't see how you could aid it at 5.10a... maybe it was the wetness, but it felt like 5.10c/d gaining the roof with small gear at your feet.. heads up for sure, I wouldn't head up there if 5.10a was your limit.

As for April 20 there was a big snow patch at the mid-way ledge (10'x6'), it was hard to keep our rope dry.
By jpvandever
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 2, 2014

I agree with Peter - the corner is cool, but getting up under the roof is very thin. Climbed this on 5/31 and there was quite a bit of dirt and grass in the crack, which forced me to aid one move below the roof and french free the roof. The crack takes small nuts and many small cams (blue alien, red/green C3). I had one of each and wished I had doubles or more. The crack thins out about 6 ft below the roof - thinner than tips for me. Above the roof, the climbing eases up and an airy step left out of the corner gets you to the bolted anchor on Pop Bottle (about 100 ft pitch).
By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Jun 9, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The crack thins out, but there are inobvious microfeatures on both walls that allow it to go- its 10a up to there, and then the 5.11 work begins under and through the roof. Was very happy to pull it off free yesterday
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jun 9, 2014

Indeed, textbook .10a up to the roof, just slightly thin and fiddly gear for your average 5.10 route. You usually don't see thin gear like that until you're in the upper .11's and .12's. But the angle of the wall really keeps the grade in check.

...And the roof goes at 5.10d as stated in the book(The "real" book). Of course, only if you find all the microfeatures;)