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Jan 27, 2011
yep
It turns out that in July I have two weddings to attend on the east coast that are only a week apart. The first is in Virgina and the second in Vermont. So instead of flying back to Colorado between them we are going to rent a car and drive from VA to VT and climb along the way. The only place I have right now that I know we are going to stop at is the Gunks.

Are there any other 'must stop' trad or sport areas between Virgina and Vermont you might suggest?

-Michael
Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 14, 2007
57 points
Jan 27, 2011
Puffin, Newfoundland, Canada
New Hampshire will be humid, but I would hit North Conway for trad. Cathedral and Whitehorse are right outside town and there are a ton of smaller areas within a half hour.

Rumney is on the way over to Vt for sport; again humid, but definitely climbable.

Cannon cliff has longer routes and is at a higher elevation, so much cooler temps comparatively.
EDGE
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 28, 2008
1,415 points
Jan 27, 2011
Poko - in upstate NY has some great trad. I don't know what you're leading, but Spider's Web (in the Adirondacks, across from Chapel Pond) has some hard trad. If you're keen on some backcountry rock, Wallface (also in the 'dacks) is about a day's walk in and has some great climbing on it - think 8 pitches.
I'd agree with Cannon and the North Conway areas too, but depending on where in VT, they might not be exactly on your way.
Have fun.
Graham Johnson
Joined Apr 27, 2006
1 points
Jan 27, 2011
Bocan
Graham Johnson wrote:
I'd agree with Cannon and the North Conway areas too, but depending on where in VT, they might not be exactly on your way. Have fun.


Yeah it's not like CO where we can hit 100 different places off the same highway. Things are scattered in NE. Very scattered.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
942 points
Administrator
Jan 27, 2011
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
Graham Johnson wrote:
Poko - in upstate NY has some great trad. I don't know what you're leading, but Spider's Web (in the Adirondacks, across from Chapel Pond) has some hard trad. If you're keen on some backcountry rock, Wallface (also in the 'dacks) is about a day's walk in and has some great climbing on it - think 8 pitches. I'd agree with Cannon and the North Conway areas too, but depending on where in VT, they might not be exactly on your way. Have fun.


Spider's Web gets really hot in the summer because it's so sunny. I'd go to Rumney and Cathedral Ledge. Cathedral goes into the shade in the afternoon, and the upper pitches get a nice breeze, so it's a great summer spot. You can drive to the top and just climb on the upper walls. Rumney can get manky, but Orange Crush is relatively breezy and shady.
Jay Knower
From Campton, NH
Joined Jul 1, 2001
6,047 points
Jan 27, 2011
Don't for get the Gunks. It will get hot and humid there too but it's definitely worth the stop. clemay
From Boulder, CO
Joined Sep 21, 2007
0 points
Jan 27, 2011
yep
Thanks for all the suggestions. Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 14, 2007
57 points
Jan 27, 2011
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...
There's great climbing in the daks for sure (although heat and humidity can be a problem there as they will be throughout the NE). But before you head up there, better check on the Falcon closures, which are usually in force through the end of July.

dec.ny.gov/outdoor/7870.html

A goodly part of Poko is usually closed. Moss cliff too. Can't remember about the Spider's Web.

You didn't say where in Virginia you are starting from. If you are South and/or West enough, it would be well worth your while heading over to Seneca Rocks first.
rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Joined Feb 15, 2008
288 points
Jan 27, 2011
crack at undisclosed location - my little proj
Seneca Rocks is worth a stop on the way up north. Timmamok
From Durango, CO
Joined Sep 1, 2008
134 points
Jan 27, 2011
new river gorge and seneca S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
24 points
Jan 27, 2011
It will be hot and humid as hell, so you will want to get as far North as possible, as soon as possible. Bugs could be bad as well. I would second Jay's suggestions...he knows what's up. I went up that way last July, and in addition to Cathedral, I would add that the bouldering at Smuggler's Notch, VT was really good. It's at high (for the east) elevation, so stays a little more crisp, and Stowe is a really cool town, and you can climb the highest peak in VT (Mt Mansfield - cool summit). Mike Anderson
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Nov 15, 2004
3,199 points
Jan 27, 2011
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adir...
The Spider's Web is not affected by the seasonal peregrine closures. The Web also stays shady in the morning until about 11 or 12, so it's a great wake-up crag. Moss Cliff will be closed, and Washbowl usually re-opens mid July. Though a portion of Poke-O is closed until Aug. 1st, there is still a TON of climbing available there that does not close.

Depending on where you are in Vermont, there is some great sport crags close to Burlington, and Wheeler Mt., located on Lake Willoughby, is the best granite crack/face climbing in New England, hands down, though a bit far removed from everything else.
Chris Duca
From Havertown, PA
Joined Dec 16, 2006
2,312 points
Jan 28, 2011
Little finger
Seneca would be a great side-trip, and if you go to the 'Daks my vote would be for Roger's Rock on Lake George- totally unique and high-quality climbing! Puzman
Joined Apr 19, 2009
51 points
Jan 28, 2011
GoG
Seneca can be pretty hit or miss that time of year. Last year I was up there around then and we had to climb in the AM, take a break and swim in the creek, then go back for an evening/night climb. You can stay out of the sun pretty well by switching which side you are on mid day, or by staying in the southern pillar alcove (which has a finite but nice selection of high quality routes 5.8-5.10).

Overall, I think it's worth it unless it is 100 degrees in W Va and 70 in new england.

If it is hot all over, there is another option, but you have to PM me to find out about it.
Ross Exler
From New York
Joined May 26, 2009
23 points


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