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East Coast Dreams
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 0.3 from 3
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Routes in (I) Dream Tower
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Animal Magnetism S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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East Coast Dreams S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hail Dancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sanctuarium S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio, Mike McGill, Bob Perna |
| Page Views: | 918 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Jul 16, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
East Coast Dreams would be a good climb if it weren't for a screwed-up start and some sketchy flakes on an easier section midway up.
Start up unprotected slab, or go up left trending easy bushy gully.
Clip the first bolt, make a long reach to a positive pocket, and gun it through the steep section past 2 more bolts. Traverse right, using some scary-looking flakes, where you'll join the easier upper section of the center bolted line (Sanctuarium, 5.12b/c). Mantle, step left, and crank on up good huecos to the chains.
The photo in Jemez Rock is a little bit off in how it depicts the upper section, but you shouldn't get lost.
Start up unprotected slab, or go up left trending easy bushy gully.
Clip the first bolt, make a long reach to a positive pocket, and gun it through the steep section past 2 more bolts. Traverse right, using some scary-looking flakes, where you'll join the easier upper section of the center bolted line (Sanctuarium, 5.12b/c). Mantle, step left, and crank on up good huecos to the chains.
The photo in Jemez Rock is a little bit off in how it depicts the upper section, but you shouldn't get lost.
Location
East Coast Dreams is the westernmost bolt line on the Dream Tower proper. This formation is just right of, or upstream from, (J) The Sponge, just right of where the creek hits the north-side cliff.
Photos
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