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East Fork Valley
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Ambush Plaisir T 
Arsenault-Bouchard T 
East Chimney/South Face T 
Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral T 
Great Grey Book T 
I Think Therefore I Ambush T 
M Buttress T 
Midsummer Dome, South Face Center T 
Midsummer's Dome SSW T 
No Picnic for Old Men T 
Raid Peak-South Buttress,East Face T 
Runnel Out T 
Son Of Raid T 
Southwest Face Midsummer's Dome T 

East Chimney/South Face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 1200', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Fred Beckey, Pat Callis & Gordon McFeters 1969
Page Views: 716
Submitted By: Jared Spaulding on Nov 28, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: An overview photo of the general route of the East...

Description 

This route climbs the impressive 150' south chimney on the east face of Ambush. This is a fun route that climbs a super fun classic chimney and climbs a big peak at a moderate grade and rating. As seen in the beta photo, start at the base of a gully that climbs up the center of the east face.

Scramble up the gully to the base of the chimney. This could involve some fifth class systems depending on your comfort level or if you wanted to climb harder fifth class rock to the left of the gully.

Belay close to the base of the chimney and worm up some mossy rock, past a chockstone (crux) with somewhat unprotected moves. Establish yourself inside the chimney and climb this classic chimney and exit on climber's right (pro will go into a thin crack on climber's left, then stem to climber's right) and belay atop the chimney from a slung chockstone and #3 camalot at a good ledge.

Next either choose the path of least resistance, aiming up and left to the notch, or conversely, choose the path of most resistance, aiming up and more right toward the summit.

I went up and slightly left for 196' on cracks and ramps at 5.5

Then I went up 190' through an open book dihedral and belayed in a big protected corner (5.6).

From there I climbed up and left 150' to a wide terrace, passing a 5.8 friction move on an overlap in black rock and more good friction moves up a slabby crack and face.

I scrambled up, then due left to above a notch. From there I scrambled 3rd class terrain to the summit.


Location 

This route is located on the east face of Ambush (Point 12,173) in the East Fork Valley

To reach the East Fork Valley, there are several options. To get to the valley one could do many things. I suggest hiking the Fremont Trail from Big Sandy Opening Trailhead and then taking the Pyramid Lake Trail to Pyramid Lake. This is about 11-13 miles. One could camp south of or north of Midsummer's Dome or at Pyramid Lake.

To get down from the top descend west slopes, traversing south to a saddle between Ambush and Geikie. Descend saddle to the east on loose scree back to base of Ambush.

Protection 

Standard rack: SLCDs & nuts


Photos of East Chimney/South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Tyler belaying on some of the upper pitches of the...
Tyler belaying on some of the upper pitches of the...
The one or two pitches we roped up for.  Hard sque...
The one or two pitches we roped up for. Hard sque...

Comments on East Chimney/South Face Add Comment
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By Mike McNeil
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Sep 13, 2013

Fun route with nice pitch in the middle. Lots of easy 5th class scrambling. It was a little wet when we did it and it is nice to have a big piece. I thought it was harder than 5.6.