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Bullwinkle Tower
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East Chimney T 
West Chimney T 

East Chimney 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Randall Weekley and Jonathan Auerbach
Page Views: 1,047
Submitted By: jason malczyk on Jul 2, 2007

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  • Description 

    Chimney with some loose rock.


    Traverse right from the west chimney to belay stance under route


    Pro to number 4 cams and long slings. Set anchor on ledge for belay. Use bolts from west chimney route for anchor.

    Comments on East Chimney Add Comment
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    By Keen Butterworth
    From: Boulder
    Jul 29, 2009

    The FA was done by Randall Weekley and Jonathan Auerbach thinking they were doing the second ascent of the West Chimney.
    By Brennan Crellin
    From: Draper, UT
    Mar 9, 2014
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

    This climb begins 10-15' off the true deck, and opens with a very committing move on about-to-break holds, protected only by two opposing lobes of a C3. This opening move could end in serious injury if not perfectly executed. The next possible placement is 6-8' above that half-placed C3. Take #5 C4 places just below the wedged boulder at the top, to protect the final move, up, around, and over it. Belayer should not stand directly at base of climb, due to inevitable debris that will fall.

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