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Sugarloaf, East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden S 
Bird Man S 
Blue Velvet T,S 
Captain Fingers T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Dominion T 
East Chimney T 
East Face, The T 
Falcon, The S 
Fang-Left Side, The T 
Farley T 
Fracture, The T 
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 
Grand Illusion T 
Harding's Chimney T 
Lady Luck T 
Lurch T 
Mini-Illusion, The S 
Monkey Flower T,S 
Morticia T 
Opus 7 S 
Over the Edge T 
Pinch a Loaf S 
Scheister T 
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 
Stone T 
Swallowtail T 
Talking Heads T 
Tapestry T 
Taurus T 
Telesis S 

East Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 894
Submitted By: Blitzo on Jan 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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From 2003 AINAM.


This climbs the obvious trough and chimney, then up to a belay beneath the big roof to the right of "Grand Illusion".
From here, climb up and right past some roofs (5.7), then up to the notch.


Pro to 4".

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By verticalworldtraveler
From: Eugene, OR
Aug 30, 2015

Good fun adventure route to stay cool on a hot afternoon. Old-school 5.7 with cruxy chimneying, minor runouts, and tiptoeing around on moss, but solid rock overall. Single rack to #3 or #4 plus runners and enjoy!

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