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Station 13
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East Chimney 
East Chimney Variation 
Highly Suspicious 
Spooky, station 13 SE arete 
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East Chimney Variation 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mark and Beverly Powell
Page Views: 2,008
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jan 1, 2002
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Joel Hagan on the first move of the second pitch.


Start at the base of the easy chimney on the east face. Climb to the top of the chimney and sink in a belay. Then look for a bolt on the face just to the left of the chimney. Traverse over and climb to the top on face holds. (This climb could probably be done as just one pitch).


Standard Rack for first pitch. One bolt on the second pitch. Fixed anchors on top.

Photos of East Chimney Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Route with approach shown from atop Spire 2
Route with approach shown from atop Spire 2
Pat Harris jammed in the crack on pitch one of the East Chimney Variation of Station 13
Pat Harris jammed in the crack on pitch one of the...
A full view of the East Chimney from the base of Station 13.
BETA PHOTO: A full view of the East Chimney from the base of S...
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By John Klooster
From: Arvada, CO
Jan 17, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This can be done as one pitch, if long runners are not used rope drag is horrid. I remember pulling slack to make the final moves to the summit. Beautiful summit, there was a person playing a reed flute in the picket fence area the day we did this route giving us a surreal needles experience.

By joelhagan
From: Rapid City, SD
Mar 28, 2007

There is one bolt on the second pitch, but I believe you can sling a horn and possibly place a nut after the bolt. This route could be done in one pitch, but because of the airy traverse left it may be safer to do it as two pitches to get over the mental crux.

By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Jun 28, 2011

Double ropes work really well here to minimize drag, especially if done as one pitch.

Amazing spire.

By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 5, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Pretty easy to do in one pitch with slings on your protection to reduce rope drag. That step across at the top is pretty exciting with your gear below you in the chimney. Thankfully, the move is easier than it looks, and the one bolt on the upper face is perfectly placed. Definitely requires two ropes to rappel from the top -- even a 70M rope comes up about 15 feet short of the ground by itself. Great climb with awesome views from the summit.