East Canyon Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: East Canyon.
East Canyon offers a welcome respite from the Puoux. Situated on the hillside between the Puoux and No Name canyon, the gray streaked limestone walls are obvious and alluring from I-70. Climbing here is more secluded and sometimes more adventurous than the Puoux and the interstate below only offers a barely noticeable sound.
The rock here is predominantly high quality, featured, and sharp although the routes tend to be shorter.
The crags face east, offering afternoon shade so depending on the weather, you can climb here spring, summer or fall.
Drive to the No Name exit (#119) on I-70 and take the westbound on-ramp, as if you were headed to Glenwood Springs. Park in a large dirt lot at the end of the on-ramp (there are no parking signs to avoid on the on-ramp). Walk back east (towards No Name) on the on-ramp and look for some trail signs (cairns, stick, etc.) that mark the approach trail which cuts up and left on the dirt sidebank. The trail will zig zag up a small ridge, following cairns, for several minutes until it runs into the remains of the old wood and metal aqueduct. Follow the aqueduct as closely as possible for another five minutes or so until a cairn or two leads up a dirt slope and into the trees where the trail continues. From there follow cairns along a more established and defined trail to the crags which are visible on the left (west) side of the East Canyon drainage. The Gecko Wall is encountered first, followed by Middle Earth and the Hole Wall above.
Expect 20 to 30 minutes, particularly for your first time on the approach.
Weather station 0.8 miles from here
11 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For East Canyon
Kapoopsie 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b CO
: Glenwood Springs
: ... : Gecko Wall
Kapoopsie is a quality line whose only drawback is that it's short. Start on the right side of the alcove in the middle of the alcove and climb the crack feature that trends up and right. Where the crack ends climb up the face, encountering the crux at the fourth and final bolt. Staying right, and on the face proper, at the fourth bolt is a little harder but cleaner and better. You can also step left into a large crack for an easier, but dirtier finish. This is probably the best warmup in the ar...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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