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East Buttress

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East Buttress 


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Location: 53.07873, -4.0907 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Mar 9, 2010
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Description 

Steep and soaring walls separated by cracks and chimneys form the rock architecture of this buttress, and there are no easy climbs here.

The cracks are typically strenuous and involve jamming and chimneying, most of them were climbed in the 20's, 30's and 40's by the likes of Fred Pigott, Colin Kirkus, and Menlove Edwards, the first climb put up at Cloggy was Pigott's. In the 50's Joe Brown put up routes like The Corner and Vember, although the first pitch of Vember, known as The Drainpipe Crack was climbed by Arthur Birtwhistle quite a time before that, making it a landmark ascent in dificulty for its time.

The walls in between provide thin, sparsely protected, face climbing of an extremely committing nature. Joe Brown first ventured out onto one of these with Diglyph, a route which starts at Sunset Crack then breaks out right and involves a pendulum. None other than Hugh Banner made the next big step with Troach - very committing for its time. The two more modern standouts here are The Great Wall, and Indian Face, first climbed by Jonnny Dawes and repeated by Leo Houlding, which helped establish him as a trad contender.


Getting There 

First big buttress right of the East Gully and below The Pinnacle - there's no mistaking it.


2 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
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Featured Route For East Buttress
John Fodor following the 1st pitch at the crux near the top 1st pitch.

Serth 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : East Buttress
E2 5C Serth (welsh for steep) is surprisingly steep climb. P1 5c 28m follow the short, shallow, twin grooves on the arete just right of sunset crack. Follow cracks and grooves to a belay with a fix pin. P2 5b 24m Climb down to a sloping ledge/crack and follow across a steep wall on the right, climb up into the obvious groove above and continue up to a grassy ledge. P3 4a 12m finish up the cracked wall flake on right wall. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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