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East Buttress Rock Climbing

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Routes in East Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Adagio T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Adam's Rib T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Beyond The Abyss S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Block Party S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Chestnut T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Fun Park S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Goldrush S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Moondance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Neve's Cling On S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Obscure Root, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
	Pine Box T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Rumble in the Jungle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Say Goodbye To Hollywood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Slot Right Step Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Slot, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sugar Mama T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Tap Dancing T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Yellow Latex Blues S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Yorkey's Crumpet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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GPS:	37.86179, -107.86834 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Anonymous Coward on Nov 9, 2005 · Updates
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Description

This is the smaller cliff located out right (east) of the main Ophir Wall. This is home to a few good single pitch routes. It is west-facing, so it is cooler early and sunnier later in the day.

Per Ross Perrot: the Lower East Buttress is a series of cliffs located east of the Ophir main wall, directly behind the Ophir post office. It has the shortest approach of all the Ophir cliffs. The cliffs are mostly south- and southwest- facing, and they receive sun throughout the day except for late November through mid-January.

The routes at the base are a variety of sport, trad, and mixed routes. The upper tier (2nd pitch ledge) is the Jungle Gym, and it is home to a number of sport routes in the 5.11-5.13 range. Further up the screefield to the east is "The Bush" gully - home to a number of sport, trad, and mixed climbs. The Bush (5.7) is a recognizable crack system on the right hand side of a the gully.

Getting There

From the Ophir Wall parking area, enter the boulderfields below the wall and traverse to the far right staying relatively low. It takes approximately 15 minutes.

Per Ross Perrot: park for Cracked Canyon. Drive 200 yards past the post office, and park on the right (south) side of the road at a pulloff. Instead of hiking straight up the screefield to Cracked Canyon, walk back towards the post office for 50+ yards, and there is a faint trail through the woods up to the screefield.

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 7 ● The Slot Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 10 ● Yorkey's Crumpet Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 6 ● Adagio Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 6 ● Slot Right Step Left Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 6 ● Yellow Latex Blues Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 8 ● Block Party Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 8 ● Neve's Cling On Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 14 ● Goldrush Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 7 ● Moondance Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 4 ● Beyond The Abyss Sport 2 pitches