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The Old Settler
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Black September T 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 
Complete Northwest Ridge T 
Contact Zone, The T 
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East Buttress of the South Peak T 
Mars Western T 
South to North Traverse T 
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Totally Spurious T 
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East Buttress of the South Peak 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: D. Brayshaw, K. Fickeisen, August 27 2002
Season: spring-fall
Page Views: 618
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 17, 2009

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Kurt Fickeisen climbing out of the cave to start t...

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Description 

Begin on the north side of the buttress toe below a prominent slabby dihedral. Climb up along the right side of this dihedral and adjacent cracks and slabs for three pitches up to 5.6. Continue on lower-angle terrain (Class 4 and easy Class 5) for another three pitches (good for simulclimbing) to a belay in a prominent cave. Climb the overhang out the left side of the cave (5.7 crux) and up two more pitches above to the summit dome of the south peak.

The rock on this route is equally as good as the rock on the west buttress, and in addition, there are finger pockets!

Location 

From Daiphy Lake, hike up talus to the col south of the peak (2 hours from the lake). Cross onto the large snowfield southeast of the peak and make a descending traverse to the east buttress of the south peak. The route begins from boulders on the north side of the buttress toe.

To descend, downclimb 3rd class ramps on the east side of the south ridge and down a 20m 4th class crux chimney then down more slabs below as per he south peak descent described for the west buttress of the south peak.

Protection 

Full rack up to #3 camalot.
Approach crosses permanent snow - bring stiff boots for kicking steps and/or crampons.


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