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Elevation: 1,216 ft
GPS: 43.41477, -89.72535
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 109,865 total · 623/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Sep 25, 2009
Admins: Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel

Description Suggest change

Bouldering above the east side of the Lake, most easily accessed from the South Shore parking lot.  This area is a complicated mosaic of boulder fields and forest with the quartzite layers descending from the promontory above Balanced Rock down toward the North Shore.

These areas are generally shaded first thing in the morning.

Getting There Suggest change

Because of the slanting layers of rock, access to these areas is complicated.  

Some areas are most easily accessed from below, along the railroad tracks:  the lower end of the Mirror Talus, Railroad Amphitheater (popular for roped climbing, and for swimming) and the neighboring talus field, and the Birthday Rocks talus field.

The top of the East Bluff (the whole hill east of the Lake is the East Bluff) is reached by the Balanced Rock trail, and there are a scattering of classic boulder problems right along the trail.

Still other areas are most easily reached from the top of the East Bluff, along the East Bluff trail:  the aptly named Lost & Found boulders, the upper end of the Mirror Talus, Pony Barricade, the deceptively named Horse Rampart boulders, and scattered problems in the cliff lines at the scenic upper rim of the Bluff.

182 Total Climbs

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Location: East Bluff South Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Bluff South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 14
Balanced Rock
Boulder
V1 5
 14
Chemotaxis
Boulder
V2 5+
 13
Lou Reed Crack
Boulder
V2 5+ PG13
 5
Pearl of the Sea
Boulder
V3 6A
 21
Lou Reed Arete
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 15
Grand Central
Boulder
V4 6B
 7
Muffin Top
Boulder
V6 7A
 14
Wildwood
Boulder
V7- 7A+
 24
Don't F With the Bees
Boulder
V7 7A+
 15
Bulbous Left Center
Boulder
V7 7A+
 20
Big Foot Arete
Boulder
V7 7A+
 10
Basswood
Boulder
V8 7B PG13
 7
Best Bulge aka Black Rhino
Boulder
V9 7C
 8
The Fukness
Boulder
V9 7C
 7
Smooth Sumac
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Balanced Rock 01. Balanced Ro… > Balanced Rock
 14
V0 4 Boulder
Chemotaxis 14. The Lost &… > Lost & Found Boulders
 14
V1 5 Boulder
Lou Reed Crack 01. Balanced Ro… > Lou Reed
 13
V2 5+ Boulder
Pearl of the Sea 04. Birthday Talus > Ocean Floor
 5
V2 5+ PG13 Boulder
Lou Reed Arete 01. Balanced Ro… > Lou Reed
 21
V3 6A Boulder
Grand Central 08. Railroad Amphithe…
 15
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Muffin Top 02. Horse Rampa… > Bunker
 7
V4 6B Boulder
Wildwood 13. Mirror Talus > Wildwood
 14
V6 7A Boulder
Don't F With the Bees 14. The Lost &… > Whaler's Rock
 24
V7- 7A+ Boulder
Bulbous Left Center 01. Balanced Ro… > Bulbous
 15
V7 7A+ Boulder
Big Foot Arete 04. Birthday Talus > Bigfoot
 20
V7 7A+ Boulder
Basswood 12. Basswood
 10
V7 7A+ Boulder
Best Bulge aka Black Rhino 01. Balanced Ro… > Black Rhino
 7
V8 7B PG13 Boulder
The Fukness 04. Birthday Talus > Fukness (aka Heartbreak)
 8
V9 7C Boulder
Smooth Sumac 13. Mirror Talus > Smooth Sumac
 7
V9 7C Boulder
More Classic Climbs in East Bluff South »

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