This talus field is the first of the major talus fields on the East Bluff. Located just past the North Shore bouldering area to the south, this area is very similar to the slant boulder field on the West Bluff with large boulders thrown about on a nice hillside. Many hard projects in the area so there is some work to be done.
Note: The potential in this area is amazing, so I would guess others have climbed here before. Terry, Paul, Eric, anyone? If there is any extra info for the area please fill in some blanks.
Enter the park at the north entrance and park in the farthest lot back by the railroad tracks(the lot just past where you park for the North Shore bouldering area). Park and hike straight up hill and you will be in the talus.
Start with good block on lower right, paste foot and throw for incut edge. Cross through and gain good slopey bread loaf. Turn the corner and get out to face. Top out is a bit heady....[more]Browse More Classics in WI
Rhoads, I figured out that they are two different talus fields. I hiked them both and they are separated like the talus fields on the West Bluff. The Australia boulder is just downhill from the Thin Man Corridor at the Monolith. I just wanted to make it less confusing and easier to find.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Nov 12, 2009
Yah, you can see the separate areas easily from West Bluff.
Well, lets name them something a bit different then. I'll leave that up to you Chris, cause I'm already confused. Put this on the google map. If it's the field I think it is, it's more like the East Shore Talus Field.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Nov 13, 2009
Yeah Nick you are right, some of area names on here are kinda confusing. How about this field be called the Monolith field,
and this one be called East Bluff North. Geographically that's more correct. Anyone have a better idea?
So one of the big problems I found was the amount of crusted on lichen on all the boulders. It was certainly more than my stick scrub brush could do anything with. How do you think you guys will clean this stuff? The hard nature of the rock (as opposed to the dodge) seems like it could hold up to some wire brush use for sure. What do you guys think? That being said I believe it is one of the most accessible boulder areas we have as it is literally straight up from where ever you park your car.
I've never used a wire brush at the lake before, but I did find one next to perfect medium the other day, so I would assume that at least some people use them. That doesn't necessarily mean that they should be using them though.
DL quartzite is ~7.5 on the Mohs scale of hardness, only topaz, corundum and diamond are harder. Not sure how wire compares. I have a piece of DL quartizte at my desk (obtained from just outside the park of course), I will try to remember to scrub it with wire brish and see if it visibly mars the surface-- of course this would not only be frowned upon, but also would be cheating: adding texture where there otherwise would be none!
I'm gonna just start using a wire brush to try to get some grittyness to the rock. lol. I hear by institue a wire brushing of all projects and things that I havent sent yet so that I may onsight them. Go forth and scrub :-)
I use a really nice and stiff red paint remover brush from Ace. It's the best thing I've seen for getting that crusty lichen off. Works really really well. When I did Recreational Vehicle the holds were covered in the stuff and it was clean in 10 minutes.