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East Bluff - Railroad Tracks
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Birthday Rocks 
Dick, The 
Horse Rampart 
Lothar's Ledges 
Railroad Amphitheater 
Turret, The 
Waterfall Wall 

East Bluff - Railroad Tracks 


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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 15, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: The Railroad Tracks Area from the West Bluff

Description 

This area, located above the railroad tracks on the East shore of the lake includes Waterfall Wall, Railroad Ampitheater, Lumby Ridge, Birthday Rocks, Horse Rampart, Lothar's Ledges, and Squirrel's Nest Tower. The area is perhaps the most easily accessed group of rocks at the lake. Notable climbs include Pine Tree Step-Across, Birthday Crack, and Roger's Roof.


Getting There 

A map of the approaches

To get to the rocks above the railroad tracks, park at the north end of the South Shore parking lot. Head north towards the railroad tracks via a paved walkway. Once you get to the tracks follow them north along the east shore of the lake. After 5-10 minutes of walking you will see a large electric fence (more of a net) to your right. Railroad Ampitheater is approximately 150 feet past the end of this fence, while Birthday rocks is directly above the fence. Horse Rampart is a little higher up the bluff toward the southeast from Birthday Rocks. Lothar's Ledges are straight up the talus slope from the south end of the electric fence, and Squirrel's Nest Tower is directly south of Horse Rampart.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Bluff - Railroad Tracks:
The Horse   5.4     Trad, TR   Horse Rampart
Pine Tree Dihedral   5.5     Trad, TR   Railroad Amphitheater
The Pillar   5.6     Trad, TR   Railroad Amphitheater
Pine Tree Step-Across   5.6 R     Trad, TR   Railroad Amphitheater
Via Apia   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Horse Rampart
Snedegar's Nose   5.7     Trad, TR   Railroad Amphitheater
Birthday Crack   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Birthday Rocks
Roger's Roof   5.8     Trad, TR   Horse Rampart
Debauchery   5.8     TR   Horse Rampart
Catenary Crack   5.9     Trad, TR   Railroad Amphitheater
Mung   5.9     Trad, 70 feet   Horse Rampart
Plethora   5.10d     Trad   Horse Rampart
Jack The Crooked Cop   5.11a     Trad, TR, 65 feet   Railroad Amphitheater
Great White Hope   5.11a     Trad, TR   Birthday Rocks
Cop-Out   5.11a     Trad, TR   Railroad Amphitheater
Woger's Woof Wightside   5.11c     TR   Horse Rampart
AAA   5.12a     TR   Horse Rampart
Between the Cheeks   5.12c     TR   Horse Rampart
Caesarian West Face   5.12c     TR   Birthday Rocks
Waterfall Wall Project   5.13     TR, 25 feet   Waterfall Wall
Browse More Classics in East Bluff - Railroad Tracks

Featured Route For East Bluff - Railroad Tracks
Carl Sherven cleans up

Birthday Crack 5.7  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Birthday Rocks
The Birthday Crack is one of the better-known climbs at the Lake. It is a fun and challenging climb with a pretty sustained crack. Start out to the left of the Birthday Chimney (route 10) below the junction of a vertical and horizontal crack. Climb up the vertical crack into the pocket at the junction of the two cracks. Don't get yourself too far back into this pocket or you'll get stuck. Reach high (real high) with both hands and pull up on a juggy hold to get above the pocket. The top ha...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI


Comments on East Bluff - Railroad Tracks Add Comment
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By Nat Blaz
Apr 6, 2002

A classic climb for beginners at Devil's Lake!

By Craig Le May
Jan 23, 2003

The Amphitheater is definitely a must if you are looking for a good Climb, when I was climbing this was the spot. It was an excellant spot to climb when the park was busy, no one went there to much, most climbers were enthralled with the bigger walls. Just above the amphitheater My old climbing partner Paul Nowak and I found a couple of Good 5.7,5.8 climbs and Bouldering areas. One we named Shooting the Moon, and rated it about a 5.7, not to hard, but a lot of nice micros and cracker ledges. This may already may have a name, we never found it in the booklet though. I would be interested to hear if anyone else discovered this treasure.