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East Bluff - Railroad Tracks

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Birthday Rocks 
Dick, The 
Horse Rampart 
Lothar's Ledges 
Railroad Amphitheater 
Turret, The 
Waterfall Wall 

East Bluff - Railroad Tracks 


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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 15, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: The Railroad Tracks Area from the West Bluff

Description 

This area, located above the railroad tracks on the East shore of the lake includes Waterfall Wall, Railroad Ampitheater, Lumby Ridge, Birthday Rocks, Horse Rampart, Lothar's Ledges, and Squirrel's Nest Tower. The area is perhaps the most easily accessed group of rocks at the lake. Notable climbs include Pine Tree Step-Across, Birthday Crack, and Roger's Roof.


Getting There 

A map of the approaches

To get to the rocks above the railroad tracks, park at the north end of the South Shore parking lot. Head north towards the railroad tracks via a paved walkway. Once you get to the tracks follow them north along the east shore of the lake. After 5-10 minutes of walking you will see a large electric fence (more of a net) to your right. Railroad Ampitheater is approximately 150 feet past the end of this fence, while Birthday rocks is directly above the fence. Horse Rampart is a little higher up the bluff toward the southeast from Birthday Rocks. Lothar's Ledges are straight up the talus slope from the south end of the electric fence, and Squirrel's Nest Tower is directly south of Horse Rampart.


Climbing Season


77 Total Routes


['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',39],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',22],['5.7',17],['5.8',13],['5.9',8],['5.10',4],['5.11',6],['5.12',5],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Bluff - Railroad Tracks:
Birthday Chimney   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, TR   Birthday Rocks
The Horse   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   Horse Rampart
Pine Tree Dihedral   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR   Railroad Amphitheater
The Pillar   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   Railroad Amphitheater
Primak's Surprise   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   Horse Rampart
Pine Tree Step-Across   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, TR   Railroad Amphitheater
Snedegar's Nose   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR   Railroad Amphitheater
Pullman Car   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR   Horse Rampart
Via Apia   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Horse Rampart
Birthday Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Birthday Rocks
Debauchery   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR   Horse Rampart
Roger's Roof   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   Horse Rampart
Lechery   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   Horse Rampart
Mung   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 70'   Horse Rampart
Catenary Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   Railroad Amphitheater
Plethora   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   Horse Rampart
Cop-Out   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, TR   Railroad Amphitheater
Great White Hope   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, TR   Birthday Rocks
Woger's Woof Wightside   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     TR   Horse Rampart
Caesarian West Face   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     TR   Birthday Rocks
Browse More Classics in East Bluff - Railroad Tracks

Featured Route For East Bluff - Railroad Tracks
rich bechler on the first lead of GREAT WHITE HOPE,1981.photo:s. sangdahl

Great White Hope 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Birthday Rocks
The Great White Hope can be found between the Birthday Crack (route 9) and the Right Twin (route 10). Climb up to the large horizontal crack using small ledges. Above the horizontal crack the climbing gets very thin. Use delicate moves on small face features to ascend to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Comments on East Bluff - Railroad Tracks Add Comment
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By Nat Blaz
Apr 6, 2002

A classic climb for beginners at Devil's Lake!

By Craig Le May
Jan 23, 2003

The Amphitheater is definitely a must if you are looking for a good Climb, when I was climbing this was the spot. It was an excellant spot to climb when the park was busy, no one went there to much, most climbers were enthralled with the bigger walls. Just above the amphitheater My old climbing partner Paul Nowak and I found a couple of Good 5.7,5.8 climbs and Bouldering areas. One we named Shooting the Moon, and rated it about a 5.7, not to hard, but a lot of nice micros and cracker ledges. This may already may have a name, we never found it in the booklet though. I would be interested to hear if anyone else discovered this treasure.