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East Bluff - Potholes Area

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Devils Doorway 
Doorway Rocks - Major Mass 
Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass 
Ramsay's Pinnacle 
Red Rock - Potholes 

East Bluff - Potholes Area  


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Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 22, 2002
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Wild rose in the woods

Description 

The Potholes Area is made up of three areas: Ramsay's Pinnacle, Doorway Rocks (including Devil's Doorway, Major Mass, and Minor Mass), and Red Rocks. Doorway Rocks is one of the largest formations on the bluffs surrounding Devil's Lake, but in spite of this it isn't as popular as other formations at the park.

The well known Devil's Doorway sits atop Doorway Rocks and attracts many day hikers, though this shouldn't be of concern to climbers since the Doorway's immediate vicinity contains only a few of the climbs found at this group of rocks.

There are two smaller areas on either side of the Doorway Rocks that are worth a visit. To the west sits Ramsay's Pinnacle, a grouping of shorter climbs easily accessed from the Devil's Doorway Trail. To the east you'll find Red Rocks, a collection of rocks that straddle the Potholes Trail.

Getting There 

To get to the rocks in the Potholes Area, park at the South Shore parking lot and follow the paved trail north over the railroad tracks to the junction of the Grottos Trail and the Balanced Rock Trail.

At this junction, take a right and walk along the Grotto's Trail at the bottom of the bluff. After about 10 minutes of easy walking, turn left on the Potholes Trail, and head up the bluff on the rock steps. The Potholes Trail winds its way up through the talus slope to the top of the bluff, meeting the Devil's Doorway Trail near the top.

Just before the top of the Potholes Trail, you will find it hard to miss the Red Rocks. The trail squeezes through a two foot wide fissure that separates two 20 foot tall blocks. This is Red Rocks.

To access Minor Mass, cut across the talus field to the left before passing through the Red Rocks formation.

Continue around the bottom of the cliff to Major Mass or follow the Potholes Trail to the top and turn left on the Devil's Doorway Trail to access the upper level of Major Mass.

To reach Ramsay's Pinnacle, follow the Devil's Doorway Trail past the Doorway Rocks. Ramsay's Pinnacle is about 150 west of the Doorway Rocks.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.7 miles from here

99 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',35],['2 Stars',42],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',52],['5.7',17],['5.8',12],['5.9',4],['5.10',6],['5.11',1],['5.12',7],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Bluff - Potholes Area:
Faith, Hope, and Charity   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR, 30'   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G...
Kenosis   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Lower Major Mass
Jungle Gym   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G...
B-minor Mass   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
Cedar Tree Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G...
Pigeon Roof   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
Angel's Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G...
Dippy Diagonal   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Lower Major Mass
Darkest Hour   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Hammer Wall & The Keyhole
Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Lower Major Mass
Archway Cookie   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Lower Major Mass
Impossible Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Devils Doorway
Jolly Roger   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G...
Mindless Dribble   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Lower Major Mass
Hammer Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Hammer Wall & The Keyhole
LadyFingers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
Rainman   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
TM Overhang   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Lower Major Mass
Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 65'   Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
Hammer Master   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, TR, 50'   Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Hammer Wall & The Keyhole
Browse More Classics in East Bluff - Potholes Area

Featured Route For East Bluff - Potholes Area
Tom Anderson-Brown on Angel's Crack just below the "arrowhead".

Angel's Crack 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G...
Angel's Crack sits on the highest cliff band of the Major Mass of Doorway Rocks. Start the climb at a 5 ft tall slab. Once on top of this slab you will see a very flat face with vertical and horizontal cracks in it. This is the Jolly Roger. Angel's Crack is around the adjacent corner to the right. Climb up the dihedral using stemming and jamming moves. There are also plenty of blocks and ledges to hold. Continue up the dihedral and pass the arrowhead slab on your left. Climb out of the d...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of East Bluff - Potholes Area Slideshow Add Photo
Autumn light
Autumn light
Devil's Doorway "summit"
Devil's Doorway "summit"

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