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East Bluff - East Rampart

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Balshazzar's Feast 
Bill's Buttress 
Brinton's Buttress 
D'Arcy's Buttress 
Four Brothers 
Gill's Buttress 
Guillotine, The 
Hawk's Nest 
Leaning Tower 
Many Pines Buttress 
Moldy Buttress 
Monster, The 
No Sweat 
Pedestal Buttress 
Pseudo Hawk's Nest 
Rainy Wednesday Tower 
Two Pines Buttress 

East Bluff - East Rampart 


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Location: 43.41364, -89.7133 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 874,711
Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Mar 4, 2002
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Devils Lake. Final moves with the runout underneat...

Description 

The East Rampart is the most popular climbing area at Devil's Lake. It is a quarter-mile long cliff band containing the highest concentration of climbs at the park. This may or may not be a good thing, depending on how many people you like around you when you climb. The area undoubtedly contains some of the finest climbs at the Lake, and the climbs are generally long (some over 100 feet) and exposed. You are apt to find that no matter how early you've come to climb that famous route someone else has already claimed it. But rest assured, there are plenty of other classics to choose from in the event you arrived a little too late. You'd be crazy to avoid the area solely because of the crowds. This is, after all, the most popular climbing area at the park for a reason.

The areas included here in the East Rampart, from East to West (right to left), are:

No Sweat
Guillotine Wall
Guillotine
The Monster

D'Arcy's Buttress
(Cemetary Wall to Darkness at Noon)
Pedestal Buttress (incl. Sometime, Campus Wall) (Sometime Right Side to Lethe)
Gill's Buttress (Twin Cracks to Boy Scout)
Brinton's Buttress (Rubber Man to Puff'n'Grunt Chimney)
Two Pines Buttress (incl. Mouse Wall) (The Rack to Hypoglycemia)
Many Pines (Buttress (incl. Peter's, Flatus) (Anemia to Algae)
V8 Tower
Moldy Buttress
(incl. Minus Wall) (Lichen to Roofus)
Bill's Buttress (Dogleg to The Outhouse)
Rainy Wednesday Tower
Green Bulge
(Out of the Woods to Hirsute)
Bedroom Wall (Cerebration to Foreplay)

Four Brothers

Leaning Tower
Tombstone Wall

Pseudo Hawks Nest
(Wild Horses to Anchor's Away)
Balshazzar's Feast
Hawk's Nest
(Renal Exam to Land's End)


Getting There 

To get to the East Rampart park at the CCC parking lot and cross the road to pick up the CCC hiking trail. The trail consists of rock steps that climb through the woods and up the talus field for a good 15-30 minute hike. When you get to "The Monster", a 20 foot wall, take a left at the "T" in the trail until you get to the "Pedestal Buttress". At this point, you can turn right and around D'Arcy's Buttress to access the top of the cliff (and many access gullies) or you can go left to access the bottom of the cliff. Go right only if your climb is located at "Many Pines Buttress" or east. If your climb is west of there, take the upper trail and descend to the base of the climb via the "Leaning Tower" gully.


Climbing Season


255 Total Routes


['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',106],['2 Stars',93],['1 Star',37],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',64],['5.7',44],['5.8',20],['5.9',21],['5.10',39],['5.11',33],['5.12',27],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Bluff - East Rampart:
Coatimundi Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 125'   Bill's Buttress
Brinton's Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad   Brinton's Buttress
Peter's Project   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Many Pines Buttress
Orgasm   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Rainy Wednesday Tower
Birch Tree Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Pedestal Buttress
Brinton's Direct   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   Brinton's Buttress
Upper Diagonal   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   Pedestal Buttress
The Stretcher   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Pedestal Buttress
Sometime Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Pedestal Buttress
Congratulations   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR   Pedestal Buttress
Mouse's Misery   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Two Pines Buttress
Cheatah   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120'   Bill's Buttress
Sometime Direct   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, 60'   Pedestal Buttress
Alpha Centauri   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 100'   Hawk's Nest
Flake Route   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, TR   Pedestal Buttress
Thoroughfare   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   Two Pines Buttress
D.L.F.A   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 29 pitches, 290'   Pedestal Buttress
Gill's Nose   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     TR   Gill's Buttress
Acid Rock   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Gill's Buttress
Bagatelle   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Pseudo Hawk's Nest
Browse More Classics in East Bluff - East Rampart

Featured Route For East Bluff - East Rampart
Pete Cleveland attempting Peyote Blues, 1982

Peyote Blues 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Gill's Buttress
Slightly more difficult than Acid Rock, Peyote Blues climbs the right side of the Gill's Nose arete. Starting on the huge block (as per Acid rock), climb left to the corner, slap the corner, and continue to the top. Unusual for a 5.12 at the Lake, Peyote has no crimps on it. Expect extreme body tension moves and large, generally bad holds. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of East Bluff - East Rampart Slideshow Add Photo
Ripples in stone
Ripples in stone
Fall sunset from the East Bluff trail. October '08.
Fall sunset from the East Bluff trail. October '08...
Devil's Lake Hardcore 1-16-2010
Devil's Lake Hardcore 1-16-2010
Spiderwort and Baraboo Quartzite
Spiderwort and Baraboo Quartzite
From the CCC trail looking toward Madison.
From the CCC trail looking toward Madison.
Best Belay Seat Ever at Devil's Lake. <br /> <br />One day (early 80's)we carried a Lazy Boy recliner up to the East Bluffs.  I was all for leaving it up there but much to our credit we carried it back down at the end of the day.  That's Jeff Kane in the chair.
Best Belay Seat Ever at Devil's Lake.

One day (ea...
Bob Horan on The Little Flatiron, Devil's Lake, WI, circa 1974.
Bob Horan on The Little Flatiron, Devil's Lake, WI...
Kim, on Brinton's
Kim, on Brinton's
Our friend the woodchuck
Our friend the woodchuck
Looking down from the base of Brinton's Buttress 2-1-09
Looking down from the base of Brinton's Buttress 2...
How to be rude
How to be rude
Jeff Vogtschaller cruises the CCC trail to the East Bluff.
Jeff Vogtschaller cruises the CCC trail to the Eas...
Birdfoot Violet (Viola pedata) is an unusual little violet, both for its dark shade of purple and for its finely divided leaves. <br /> <br />It shows up after the Dutchman's Breeches have finished, but before the Columbine have really started.  A good place to find it is along the rim of the East Rampart, between Rainy Wednesday Tower and the Leaning Tower Gully.
Birdfoot Violet (Viola pedata) is an unusual littl...
East Bluff boulderfield under snow, 2011
East Bluff boulderfield under snow, 2011
The start of the CCC trail to the East Bluff.
The start of the CCC trail to the East Bluff.
View from the top of Chicago.
View from the top of Chicago.
CCC trail at "The Flatiron", and the frozen Lake in the distance
CCC trail at "The Flatiron", and the frozen Lake i...
The cool weather has been good to these guys!
The cool weather has been good to these guys!
Kristi taking a breather after the hike up the CCC trail.
Kristi taking a breather after the hike up the CCC...
Best seat in the house
Best seat in the house
Spring ephemerals
Spring ephemerals
Comments on East Bluff - East Rampart Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous
Apr 24, 2002

I used to think this hike was long and hard until I moved to Colorado. Tom - Great work on the site. I learned to climb at the lake and have moved on to bigger things, but I'll be back some day and will use the site often then. Keep it up! Mark Morehouse

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 31, 2005

this area is one of the best places to climb at dl as proven by it having been worked to death by decades of midwest climbers.it is a great place to pull down whether you top-rope or lead.there are scores of 3 star routes to climb. lets be careful out there!