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Guillotine/No Sweat, The
Many Pines Buttress
Pseudo Hawk's Nest
Rainy Wednesday Tower
Two Pines Buttress
The East Rampart is the most popular climbing area at Devil's Lake. It is a quarter-mile long cliff band containing the highest concentration of climbs at the park. This may or may not be a good thing, depending on how many people you like around you when you climb. The area undoubtedly contains some of the finest climbs at the Lake, and the climbs are generally long (some over 100 feet) and exposed. You are apt to find that no matter how early you've come to climb that famous route someone else has already claimed it. But rest assured, there are plenty of other classics to choose from in the event you arrived a little too late. You'd be crazy to avoid the area solely because of the crowds. This is, after all, the most popular climbing area at the park for a reason.
To get to the East Rampart park at the CCC parking lot and cross the road to pick up the CCC hiking trail. The trail consists of rock steps that climb through the woods and up the talus field for a good 15-30 minute hike. When you get to "The Monster", a 20 foot wall, take a left at the "T" in the trail until you get to the "Pedestal Buttress". At this point, you can turn right and around D'Arcy's Buttress to access the top of the cliff (and many access gullies) or you can go left to access the bottom of the cliff. Go right only if your climb is located at "Many Pines Buttress" or east. If your climb is west of there, take the upper trail and descend to the base of the climb via the "Leaning Tower" gully.
250 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Bluff - East Rampart:
Featured Route For East Bluff - East Rampart
Golden Ledges 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Pedestal Buttress
this is another classic lead. fuk-nes moves with the possibility of hitting the ledge type pedestal should you blow it ,which i have seen people do.we use to put a pack on the pedestal to pad it....[more] Browse More Classics in WI
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