|East Bluff - East Rampart
Devils Lake. Final moves with the runout underneat...
The East Rampart is the most popular climbing area at Devil's Lake. It is a quarter-mile long cliff band containing the highest concentration of climbs at the park. This may or may not be a good thing, depending on how many people you like around you when you climb. The area undoubtedly contains some of the finest climbs at the Lake, and the climbs are generally long (some over 100 feet) and exposed. You are apt to find that no matter how early you've come to climb that famous route someone else has already claimed it. But rest assured, there are plenty of other classics to choose from in the event you arrived a little too late. You'd be crazy to avoid the area solely because of the crowds. This is, after all, the most popular climbing area at the park for a reason.
The areas included here in the East Rampart, from East to West (right to left), are:
D'Arcy's Buttress (Cemetary Wall to Darkness at Noon)
Pedestal Buttress (incl. Sometime, Campus Wall) (Sometime Right Side to Lethe)
Gill's Buttress (Twin Cracks to Boy Scout)
Brinton's Buttress (Rubber Man to Puff'n'Grunt Chimney)
Two Pines Buttress (incl. Mouse Wall) (The Rack to Hypoglycemia)
Many Pines (Buttress (incl. Peter's, Flatus) (Anemia to Algae)
Moldy Buttress (incl. Minus Wall) (Lichen to Roofus)
Bill's Buttress (Dogleg to The Outhouse)
Rainy Wednesday Tower
Green Bulge (Out of the Woods to Hirsute)
Bedroom Wall (Cerebration to Foreplay)
Pseudo Hawks Nest (Wild Horses to Anchor's Away)
Hawk's Nest (Renal Exam to Land's End)
To get to the East Rampart park at the CCC parking lot and cross the road to pick up the CCC hiking trail. The trail consists of rock steps that climb through the woods and up the talus field for a good 15-30 minute hike. When you get to "The Monster", a 20 foot wall, take a left at the "T" in the trail until you get to the "Pedestal Buttress". At this point, you can turn right and around D'Arcy's Buttress to access the top of the cliff (and many access gullies) or you can go left to access the bottom of the cliff. Go right only if your climb is located at "Many Pines Buttress" or east. If your climb is west of there, take the upper trail and descend to the base of the climb via the "Leaning Tower" gully.
Browse More Classics in East Bluff - East Rampart
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Bluff - East Rampart:
Featured Route For East Bluff - East Rampart
|Photos of East Bluff - East Rampart Slideshow
Kristi taking a breather after the hike up the CCC...
Ripples in stone
Our friend the woodchuck
Spiderwort and Baraboo Quartzite
Fall sunset from the East Bluff trail. October '08...
Looking down from the base of Brinton's Buttress 2...
Bob Horan on The Little Flatiron, Devil's Lake, WI...
Birdfoot Violet (Viola pedata) is an unusual littl...
Jeff Vogtschaller cruises the CCC trail to the Eas...
From the CCC trail looking toward Madison.
The start of the CCC trail to the East Bluff.
Devil's Lake Hardcore 1-16-2010
Best seat in the house
East Bluff boulderfield under snow, 2011
Best Belay Seat Ever at Devil's Lake.
One day (ea...
View from the top of Chicago.
How to be rude
The cool weather has been good to these guys!
|Comments on East Bluff - East Rampart
Mar 14, 2002
not to be nit-picky... but it is only, at most, a 15min hike to the top (even with that aid rack and portaledge you're bringing to practice with).
|By Tom Anderson-Brown|
From: Madison, WI
Mar 15, 2002
You're right. I was going for worst-case (spare tire) scenario. But you are definitely correct.
|By Stephen D. Schaefgen|
Apr 13, 2002
Hey! I resent...er...uh...resemble that remark! Some of you may be better hikers than others, but let us not offend them! It all depends. Just give a distance and altitude gain and and average time. It isn't an easy hike, then again, neither were the mountains I summited! Let us not pick on the other people. Some of us DO climb with a spare tire.
Apr 24, 2002
I used to think this hike was long and hard until I moved to Colorado. Tom - Great work on the site. I learned to climb at the lake and have moved on to bigger things, but I'll be back some day and will use the site often then. Keep it up! Mark Morehouse
p.s. Check ClimibingBoulder.com if you're going anywhere in Colorado, it's stacked with beta!
|By Brian Milhaupt|
From: Golden, CO
May 5, 2002
When they first started the sister sites to this one they were pretty useless. There was alot of negativity surrounding how people would use or abuse it, and how benefitial it would really be. Now they have become a very useful tool for front range climbers. Just keep things positive, and a picture is worth a thousand words.
|By Steve Sangdahl|
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 31, 2005
this area is one of the best places to climb at dl as proven by it having been worked to death by decades of midwest climbers.it is a great place to pull down whether you top-rope or lead.there are scores of 3 star routes to climb. lets be careful out there!
|By mike suarez|
Oct 3, 2005
i am new to aiding and I was wondering if some of you could recommend some good beginner aid(clean) routes around southern wisco. thanks-ms
|By Peter Beck|
Nov 19, 2012
I had to bail late in the day on October 27th and left an entire top rope setup on Birch Tree Crack. All the hardware is marked with blue and yellow tape.
3 Camalot's each with a bright orange BD hoodwire biner
2 Omega Pacific pear shaped lockers
Purpe 1 inch webbing
I'm a teacher and climbing coach in the area. Please contact me if you recovered the gear.