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This is a nice ridge with a ton of 3rd/4th class climbing and a few short 5th class sections mixed in.
Follow the ridge towards Peak 13,151’ staying on the ridge as it tries to spit you off to the left (South). Climb fun 3rd and 4th class and walk the cool knife edge ridge as pictured in Croft’s guide. As you near Peak 13,151 you are forced off the ridge to the South and must make a few 5th class moves and meander back and forth to reach the summit of Peak 13,151’. From here you descend the ridge and encounter a short steep notch – 10’ 5.7 downclimb or rappel. Continue down the ridge and up the next sub-peak and on the other side another 10’ 5.6 downclimb or rappel. You are now at the main notch where many people begin the climb via hiking up the scree gully to the South.
Gain the ridge again as soon as you can via a 4th class trough. Continue on the 3rd/4th class ridge to a headwall. Go around the corner to the left and up 5.2 cracks. 3rd class leads to easier ground and eventually a flat plateau. Turn right (North) towards the summit staying low to the left of the ridge to reach a notch – Married Men’s Point. Pick out the easiest line and climb 100’ or so of low 5th class and then 3rd class to the summit.
Descent: Downclimb the route rappelling where necessary. From the notch take the scree gullies to the South and then head East over talus. In early season the scree gullies can be full of snow which can’t be seen from the approach.
West on Hwy 168 (W. Line St.) from Bishop for 7.5 miles and turn right onto Buttermilk Rd. There are many side roads off of this road, always take the most traveled road. Around 6 miles turn left at a fork to go towards McGee Creek. After crossing the creek turn right at a fork and at the next few junctions stay right until you come to a dead end. The last few miles of the road are very rough and require high-clearance and possibly 4WD.
Start hiking on a trail and then break left heading cross-country to the West. Stay left of the cliff bands and head up one of the sandy loose gullies sometimes on use trails. Before reaching the lake at 10,990’ (a few bivy sites here) head Northwest to the saddle between Peak 13,151’ and Peak 12,241’. The route begins here.
Singles to 2", slings to reinforce rappel stations
Walking the knife edge ridge.
This shows the final section of the ridge. Lots of...
BETA PHOTO: Mt. Humphreys approach and route. The line repres...
Jul 2, 2011
If you're planning on doing this route in the next few weeks, bring an ice axe for the descent gully.
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
Aug 14, 2013
Kind of a blue collar classic - long with lots of fourth class, some good rock and some choss, an amazing summit, and a scary descent. Not too bad ropeless as most of the fifth class sections aren't really a death fall scenario, but you do have to do some 5.6/5.7 downclimbing as was previously mentioned. At the crux you can opt for a more difficult but safer line above the ledge rather than traversing out left onto the exposed face. Descent gully was nasty scree, better and faster would be to reverse back over the sub peak.