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This area encompasses a large portion of Devil's Tower that is accessable via the East and Northeast buttress approaches. Everything from offwidth to finger cracks can be found here. Most routes are of high quality with sustained straight-in climbing. On the East side of the tower looms a large roof system that cuts across the sheer East face of the tower. To the right of these roofs is the Belle Fouche buttress which forms a prominent protrusion that ledges out halfway up the tower. This buttress marks, more or less, the left end of the routes accessable from this appoach. The right end is at the terminus of the ramp below the north face. Quality climbs of note include Belle Fouche buttress, McCarthy's North Face, and New Wave. From the Teacher's Lounge ledge there are several great climbs including Patent Pending and Assembly Line.
From the lot follow the paved trail around the North side of the tower. The trail dips low into the woods and then climbs back into view of the tower. Hike past a bench and before a large boulder start looking for a faint trail that is sometimes cairned. The trail winds up to the notch that separates the base of the east face from the northeast. At the notch the better defined trail goes up steps to the right to the routes below teacher's ledge lounge and continues on broken ledges to all the north face routes. The less defined trail is so because there are less quality routes and abundant poison ivy. To reach routes on and near Belle Fouche buttress ford the ivy and scramble up and across slabs to the base.
20 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in East and Northeast Buttress Approach
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East and Northeast Buttress Approach:
Patent Pending 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 4 pitches, 640'
Gooseberry Jam 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Assembly Line 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
New Wave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Broken Tree 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 270'
Belle Fourche Buttress 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Burning Daylight 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Back to Montana 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Casper College 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Everlasting 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Maid in the Shade 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, 165'
Featured Route For East and Northeast Buttress Approach
Casper College 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress...
About 10 feet to the left of Burning Daylight is this great pitch. There are numerous fixed pins on this pitch of questionable quality. There aren't other pro options in some of these sections, so this climb may warrant an 'S' rating.Climb the crack through an awkward start to a good rest. Though the difficulty of the climb is mainly in keeping it together for a long pitch with many hard sections, the next 30 feet are probably the crux... a mix of laybacking and stemming past lots of fixed pi...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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