East 2 West Granite Training

Hello!

I have a trip coming up in August to the High Sierra and from experience (going to the Needles last fall), I can say that all the climbing I did on New Hampshire granite did not quite prepare me for the long, sustained pitches in the Sierra. It seems like the routes in NH aren't quite long, strenuous, or sustained enough to translate (or at least the ones I've tried).

Can anyone recommend some supplemental training, in addition to maybe some good route suggestions that I can focus on here in New Hampshire to prepare? I'm definitely much more acclimated to the cruxy, yet not very sustained climbing typically found here. For example, I lead Duet Direct on Cannon recently and while none of the moves were all that hard, I was hosed by the top!

I guess the big goal would be to try Positive Vibrations on the Hulk. I feel comfortable at the 11- grade, but stringing together that many 10+ and 11- pitches in a day seems daunting to me.

I've been focusing on general strength (I'm very, very weak in this regard) more with kettlebell workouts and whatnot. But training for this type of climbing is quite foreign to me.

Thanks!

A little roadtrip to the Dacks might be in order as prep work for sustained/burly climbing. I found that the Dacks climbing was usually, at a given grade, steeper and more physical than the techy granite of NH. For physical, pumpy, sustained climbing, the Spider's Web would be a fantastic training crag. If you can climb 8-10 5.10-5.11 pitches there in a day, you'll have the fitness you need for basically any one-day 11- route. Basically all the routes on that wall are good.

The Dacks also offer some really fantastic long routes that, similarly, are steep and physical and would be a good way to get used to doing a bunch of physical pitches in a row. Moss Cliff is awesome, and burly. If you can do 2 of the ~4 pitch classic routes there in a day, you're fit. Bird closures are a limiting factor, though.

Also check out Freeride on Wallface. 8 or 9 pitches, 11a, fairly sustained, with some pretty physical climbing in the upper pitches. Probably the closest thing you'll find in the East to an all-day burly route, especially with the long approach.

Hey Phil,
First, always remember your umbilicals. Second, you will have no problems with Positive Vibrations. Just get a good head and be psyched!

JCM wrote:A little roadtrip to the Dacks might be in order as prep work for sustained/burly climbing. I found that the Dacks climbing was usually, at a given grade, steeper and more physical than the techy granite of NH. For physical, pumpy, sustained climbing, the Spider's Web would be a fantastic training crag. If you can climb 8-10 5.10-5.11 pitches there in a day, you'll have the fitness you need for basically any one-day 11- route. Basically all the routes on that wall are good. The Dacks also offer some really fantastic long routes that, similarly, are steep and physical and would be a good way to get used to doing a bunch of physical pitches in a row. Moss Cliff is awesome, and burly. If you can do 2 of the ~4 pitch classic routes there in a day, you're fit. Bird closures are a limiting factor, though. Also check out Freeride on Wallface. 8 or 9 pitches, 11a, fairly sustained, with some pretty physical climbing in the upper pitches. Probably the closest thing you'll find in the East to an all-day burly route, especially with the long approach.

Excellent ideas, thanks! I've climbed at the Spider's Web once (very cold weekend in April) and quickly realized how different it is from NH climbing. Moss Cliff and Wallface also sound ideal. Looks like I should try to get to the dacks at least one more time!

burado wrote:Hey Phil, First, always remember your umbilicals. Second, you will have no problems with Positive Vibrations. Just get a good head and be psyched!

Thanks Bradford! I should strive to have at least a smidge of your optimism. I will bring doubles of spinners just for you. Hope you are doing well!

I'd skip Wallface at this time of the year as it will be really hot. Moss Cliff is currently closed for bird nesting. To reiterate what JCM already stated, put some work in at Spider's Web. You will be fit. Lastly, don't underestimate the effect of altitude at the Hulk.

Thanks for the insight, Jon. I believe our Hulk sojourn will happen at the end of the trip, so hopefully we'll be decently acclimated to both the altitude and the climbing.

Phil S wrote:It seems like the routes in NH aren't quite long, strenuous, or sustained enough to translate (or at least the ones I've tried).

I took a look through your MP tick list and two things stand out (keep in mind this is based on what you have listed):

1) A bunch of the tougher classics in the 10-11 grade range are missing:
VMC Direct Direct
Intimidation
Lights in the Forest
Peanut Gallery Flake
Nomad Crack, Lichen Delight+A Lot
Children's Crusade (the whole thing)
The Eliminate
Mechanic's Route (nice long mtn approach on this one)

2) You need to start trying to do many more routes each day you get out. For example, right before your Needles trip: Sept 20 - Hotter than Hell to Inferno, then Nutcracker. Sounds like a fun day, but if you want to get ready for big routes out west you need to get more done! Try enchaining Moby Grape and Vertigo, and then if you really want to get strong, do VMC too. Or at Cathedral, do Bombardment+Book, then Recombeast, Diedre and Intimidation in a day. Pile up enough "cruxy" routes in a row and it will feel sustained...

Also, I'll echo what others have said. You won't find steep, sustained, splitters in NH for the most part (but there are exceptions). Personally, I often find the "sustained 5.10 handrack" pitches in Sierra or Bugs granite to be the relaxing part of the climb. The Dacks can help with the steeper cracks, but we got ready for RNWF Half Dome & the Bugaboos climbing mostly at NoCo and Cannon. It can be done, but you have to stay psyched and go hard.

Have fun on your trip!

Cjdrover, thanks a ton for the honest feedback! While my MP tick list is far from a comprehensive look at what I do on my days out (I usually just record the "highlights" or what have you), you are definitely on the money.

I've been living in NH a little over a year now and lived in Ohio all my life before that (so I'm automatically gonna die). So the vast majority of my climbing time has been spent in single pitch venues (Red and New).

Hopefully I can get at least a few big days in before the trip. The tough part for me has been finding willing partners to do this sort of thing. Although I have to admit that I've been focusing a lot more on sport climbing this year so it's mostly my fault!

I've had plans to go to Acadia this weekend, so in the spirit of changing my ways, I hope to have a couple of big days out there!

Thanks again, I appreciate the help