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The Parking Lot Wall
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Easily Aroused 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tim Kemple Sr.
Page Views: 1,738
Submitted By: James Otey on Jun 2, 2007

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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Just right of Easily Amused, Easily Aroused climbs straight up the center of the parking lot wall. Boulder up a suprisingly hard start to clip the first bolt, or stick clip if you're not feeling saucy. After you've clipped you'll be met by the crux: a ten foot section of technical slab climbing with thin slopers and crimps. The hands are awful in this section, though they can easily be overcome by creative, precise footwork. After firing the crux and clipping the third bolt, head up and right where you will be met with delightful 5.7 climbing to the chains.

Easily Aroused presents a great opportunity to improve on your technical footwork and build crimp strength without working up too much of a sweat... that is if you can keep it together while clipping the first few bolts. Definitely hard at the grade, though fun nonetheless.


Location 

Right of Easily Amused and left of Egg McMeadows- best characterized by its thin slabby nature and difficult start.


Protection 

5 bolts to LO.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 7, 2013
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 2, 2007

I've seen a few cocky novices hop on this for a warm up thinking it is Easily Amused (5.7) and being shut down hard before realizing that this route isn't in the guide book... so the girl they were trying to impress is just left wondering what happened to the cool dude she showed up with...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 20, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

fun route with a couple tricky moves, good 5.9, but dont get it confused with easily amused you will be in for a surprised

By losbill
Jan 4, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Tim Kemple, Sr put this route up. Good description, I am a weak puppy so I really need to focus on the feet, just pulling on the crimps won't get me there.

Although it is short it is nice to have an additional 5.9, and a challenging one at that, on a wall that sees many groups of mixed abilities climbing in the low to moderate range.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 4, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree completely, the first time I tried this route I tried to just pull on the crimps which didn't work I had to readjust myself and use my feet, but as Lee said above don't mistake it for Easily Amused or you will be in for quite a surprise.

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jan 4, 2009

i really like this route. i was shut down the first time i tried it but after doin in a couple of times its wicked fun. the crux has a cool two finger pocket undercling that makes me happy :)

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 4, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Mike i couldn't agree more this climb makes you think about technique not just pulling on holds... I actually don't use the undercling, to each their own though, as we all know there is no right way just our own preferred way.

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jan 4, 2009

amen to that brotha :)

By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Apr 26, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Not a fan of this one...a bit of a contrived squeeze job IMHO, but definitely gets your attention until the third bolt. I have seen two people deck on this route thinking it was 5.7.

By twellman
Jul 17, 2009

I was climbing at dusk with a friend recently, and I hopped on this with my headlamp thinking it was one of the 5.7's that abound in this area... I remember thinking that it felt more like a 5.10 with some tough clips... so it must have been this route! Definitely some small holds but sufficient feet.

By Eli Kramer
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Oct 9, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Looked like one of the 5.7s from the ground so hopped right on. Some thought provoking moves just after clipping the second bolt. Our group consensus was a stiff 5.8 but we aren't used to Rumney grades.

By S. Neoh
Jul 25, 2010

Felt 9+ or 10a on a humid day to me with a tough second clip. Definitely gets one's attention, esp so if it is the 1st route of the day!
On on-sight, I can easily see how one might think this route has a 5.10 crux!!

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Mar 20, 2012

Will definitely skip next time. Not even worth TR'ing. Moves are awkward at best and holds for the hands suck (that's still understated). I was just happy to get my gear for the anchor down when done and move on. Only climb at Rumney I lowered off feeling completely underwhelmed.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 1, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Maybe I am missing some beta, but the crux on this feels awfully thin for a 5.9. This route feels harder to me than Egg McMeadows.

By anna.gutwin
From: Burlington, VT
Jul 7, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It's a one or two move wonder, and squeezed in, but thought provoking and worth while.