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Easily Amused 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Chris Smith, 11/96
Page Views: 2,137
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (116)
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Ryan Nicholson starts up 'Easily Ammused' 5.7 in f...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Not a particularly memorable route, but the moves are good. It's just short and somewhat non-descript.

Climb the face on mostly crimpy holds, past an undercling and on to more of the same. It reminds me of the first part of Rise and Shine (5.7); however, the second half of that route is the better part.

A good route to keep you climbing while you wait for other climbs to open up.

Location 

Next route right of the start of Glory Jeans (5.6).

Protection 

3 bolts to quick clips.


Photos of Easily Amused Slideshow Add Photo
Fun little climb
Fun little climb
Dovi Hirsch on Easily Amused
Dovi Hirsch on Easily Amused

Comments on Easily Amused Add Comment
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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 24, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

When doing this route there will be a jug about four feet to your left that is tempting, do not go to this it makes it much harder. But this route is a lot of fun.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 14, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The right quick link on this route could be replaced its worn more than halfway though and the left one ir reaching halfway through. i will mention this to Jim Shimberg and see what can be done
By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Jun 6, 2011

What is the bolted upper part of this?
By S. Neoh
Jun 6, 2011

That would be Rubicon, listed here too. I thought the crux of Rubicon is pretty tough - hard 5.10 but your mileage may vary.
By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Jun 9, 2011

I found it after I posted.
By J Meagher
Oct 29, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Really fun face climbng on great crimps in the first half and some nice jugs on the upper part. The quick-clips aren't that great though; both are about halfway worn through, and although they are still useable, they probably won't be in about a year or so.

About the upper half, rubicon; this is not listed in the newest guidebook, so it must be fairly new. I talked to some guys who had just done it, and they said that the crux is basically one really big deadpoint about 3/4 of the way up. They also mentioned that this felt significantly harder than espresso and was probably about 5.10d.
By S. Neoh
Oct 29, 2012

The extension, Rubicon, is here - mountainproject.com/v/rubicon/... . Yes, it is fairly new.
And, yes, I would agree for shorties like me, Rubicon feels about .10d. Some holds might have broken off or gotten smaller since I was last on it. If one were to lead thru Easily Amused to reach Rubicon, falling off the crux move and possibly hitting the ledge is a consideration, with rope stretch. I do not think Rubicon is poorly bolted, it is just the nature of the route. If I were to lead Rubicon again, I will probably bring my partner up to the ledge and lead it as a separate pitch from Easily Amused.