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Routes in Morning Glory Spire
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Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Morning Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strategic Defense T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,467 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | K Baumgartner on Jun 27, 2013 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
There are two starts to this route. Either begin as for Crack of Dung but veer right around the corner OR start 15 feet down to the right and climb the water gulley with no pro. The latter has the advantage of reducing rope drag.
Head up to the chimney to the fixed tat. Continue up to a ledge and veer right of the left facing crack (probably 5.7-5.8). You'll meet a wall to the left with a large block on top. It's probably 5.7 if you go straight up or you can keep it 5.5 by going around back of this block the right. Build an anchor.
Scramble up and left to the anchors on top of Skyline.
Head up to the chimney to the fixed tat. Continue up to a ledge and veer right of the left facing crack (probably 5.7-5.8). You'll meet a wall to the left with a large block on top. It's probably 5.7 if you go straight up or you can keep it 5.5 by going around back of this block the right. Build an anchor.
Scramble up and left to the anchors on top of Skyline.
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