Easiest 5.10 in Utah

i am trying to figure out a easy .10 in the wasatch range ( AF, BCC...) for a friend who wants to try his hand at leading a .10 for the 1st time. Opinions on the most straight forward .10's around?

Anything at the purple wall...

What style?

I find a lot of 5.10a friction routes out there that maybe have one move near a bolt, a whole lot easier for me than most steep sport routes.

Probably not the case for everyone.

As a general rule, you could probably search the wasatch database on the 'proj and pick a no or one start 5.10a sport route, maybe any, and it would satisfy the need. One move wonders at the grade typically tend to have a low star count...sometimes...

Knowing my friend, how new he is...friction slab probably wouldn't be a good thing for him....thanks for the responses thus far.

Almost any 5.10 to 5.11 in rock canyon.

Witch Hunt at the Slips in BCC is pretty easy as a 5.10a. All of the clips are off jugs.

Alex Quitiquit wrote:Anything at the purple wall...

same goes for the melting mud wall at hell gate

Why not put him on an 8 or 9? Teach your friend to climb for the sake of climbing. Don't become a grade "ticker". He'll have more fun in the long run.

i understand that...& agree...but in the end, it isn't up to me. He really wants to lead a .10, & he has different ideas about climbing then i do, which is ok. But i would rather belay him & make sure he is safe other then letting someone else belay him that doesn't know much about safety... thus is the reason i am trying to decide on a 'soft' .10 ...

Sandbag 8+ would teach him a lot more...

Rob Dillon wrote:Sandbag 8+ would teach him a lot more...

Rob Dillon wrote:Sandbag 8+ would teach him a lot more...

Daniel Winder wrote: Most of Greg's 10a's are pretty soft, safe, and a lot of fun.

Nothing in LCC is "easy" in the way of trad or sport, minus the hellgate of course which I would approve of. But if I know newbies, and I think I do, they appreciate holds they can see, ie Jug buckets. So my recommendation is "Caress of Steel' on the Membrane in AF. It might be pumpy, but its obvious where to go. But of course telling him Mexican Crack is an easy 5.10a might be more funny when he can't get off the ground.

The easiest .10 I've done is "Failure to Launch" on the mission control block in Rock Canyon. It's really short, just 25-30 ft I believe adding to the easiness. The approach takes a while but there's a ton of climbs up in the whole galaxy area. When I did it I climbed the 5.7 next to it first and hung a draw from the first bolt, mostly a psychological help.

Here's my list of "beginner" 5.10 routes worth the effort (meaning low on the weirdness and pump):

Rock Canyon
-Pink Canoe
-Chupacabra
-Close Encounters
-The Right Stuff

American Fork Canyon
-Caress of Steel
-Drunken Midget (I though this was WAY overrated)
-Barbie Twins

When I hear easiest 10, Platinum Blonde is what comes to mind.

You could also do this:

Wasatch 10a

Spencer Weiler wrote:...telling him Mexican Crack is an easy 5.10a might be more funny when he can't get off the ground.

Thanks for all the route ideas...i might have to take some advice here, if purely for the potential for hilarity... thanks

Go put them on Gordon's Hangover - thats an easy 10, snicker, snicker.