Slightly dicey climbing off the ground leads better protected but thin climbing through discontinuous cracks to a steep section through a bulge. The technical crux is just below the roof, then you have a decent rest before the pumpy crux.
One can stop at the Young Cynics anchor at 75'. The original first pitch went another 55' to a higher anchor with a harder crux, making a 130', stellar thin crack pitch.
This is the thin crack right of Killslug and left of Young Cynics and Soul on Ice.
A 60m will lower from the midway anchor. If the entire pitch were cleaned, two ropes would be needed.
Lots of thin to #2 or 3 Camalot; possibly wider for the very top, if it were clean. Double or triple up on nuts and finger size. Midway anchors are chains on aging bolts; top anchor is unknown but probably unsafe at this point. If planning to lead the full pitch bring a nut tool, a hardy brush and maybe a shovel.
Nov 13, 2010
It's clean enough to do to the top.
Aug 7, 2014
One of the funnest roof sequences I've done on a trad climb. Definitely techy down low.
|By Jon Nelson|
Aug 7, 2014
I did it long ago, but went back this summer and couldn't even TR the techy part just below the roof. It's definitely a challenging route I'll be back for.