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Earwax Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Antidote S 
Biology of Small Appliances, The S 
Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin, The S 
Domestic Violence T 
Earwax T 
Killslug S 
Raggedy Andy S 
Raggedy Anne S 
Sideshow S 
Slugshow S 
Soul on Ice S 
Young Cynics S 

Earwax 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Don Harder, Dougal McCarty FFA: Terry Lien, Jon Nelson
Page Views: 590
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Earwax follows the crack, but is mostly face moves...

Description 

Slightly dicey climbing off the ground leads better protected but thin climbing through discontinuous cracks to a steep section through a bulge. The technical crux is just below the roof, then you have a decent rest before the pumpy crux.

One can stop at the Young Cynics anchor at 75'. The original first pitch went another 55' to a higher anchor with a harder crux, making a 130', stellar thin crack pitch.


Location 

This is the thin crack right of Killslug and left of Young Cynics and Soul on Ice.

A 60m will lower from the midway anchor. If the entire pitch were cleaned, two ropes would be needed.


Protection 

Lots of thin to #2 or 3 Camalot; possibly wider for the very top, if it were clean. Double or triple up on nuts and finger size. Midway anchors are chains on aging bolts; top anchor is unknown but probably unsafe at this point. If planning to lead the full pitch bring a nut tool, a hardy brush and maybe a shovel.



Comments on Earwax Add Comment
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By dickcilley
Nov 13, 2010

It's clean enough to do to the top.

By MorganH
Aug 7, 2014

One of the funnest roof sequences I've done on a trad climb. Definitely techy down low.

By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Aug 7, 2014

I did it long ago, but went back this summer and couldn't even TR the techy part just below the roof. It's definitely a challenging route I'll be back for.