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Slightly dicey climbing off the ground leads better protected but thin climbing through discontinuous cracks to a steep section through a bulge. One can stop at the Young Cynics anchor at 75'. The original first pitch went another 55' to a higher anchor with a harder crux, but this is unfortunately overgrown. Cleaning this would create a 130', stellar thin crack pitch.
This is the thin crack right of Killslug and left of Young Cynics and Soul on Ice.
A 60m will lower from the midway anchor. If the entire pitch were cleaned, two ropes would be needed.
Lots of thin to #2 or 3 Camalot; possibly wider for the very top, if it were clean. Double or triple up on nuts and finger size. Midway anchors are chains on aging bolts; top anchor is unknown but probably unsafe at this point. If planning to lead the full pitch bring a nut tool, a hardy brush and maybe a shovel.
Nov 13, 2010
It's clean enough to do to the top.