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Earwax Wall
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Antidote 
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Raggedy Anne 
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Young Cynics 

Earwax 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Don Harder, Dougal McCarty FFA: Terry Lien, Jon Nelson
Page Views: 461
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Earwax follows the crack, but is mostly face moves...

Description 

Slightly dicey climbing off the ground leads better protected but thin climbing through discontinuous cracks to a steep section through a bulge. One can stop at the Young Cynics anchor at 75'. The original first pitch went another 55' to a higher anchor with a harder crux, but this is unfortunately overgrown. Cleaning this would create a 130', stellar thin crack pitch.


Location 

This is the thin crack right of Killslug and left of Young Cynics and Soul on Ice.

A 60m will lower from the midway anchor. If the entire pitch were cleaned, two ropes would be needed.


Protection 

Lots of thin to #2 or 3 Camalot; possibly wider for the very top, if it were clean. Double or triple up on nuts and finger size. Midway anchors are chains on aging bolts; top anchor is unknown but probably unsafe at this point. If planning to lead the full pitch bring a nut tool, a hardy brush and maybe a shovel.



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By dickcilley
Nov 13, 2010

It's clean enough to do to the top.