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 ADVANCED
Physical Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bacon and Ergs T,TR 
Bacon Bits T 
Crown Joules T,TR 
Dyne and Dash T,TR 
EarthQuark T,TR 
Ergonomics T 
Fission Chips T,TR 
Ohm on the Range T 
Pole Vault T 
Watts For Dinner T 
Watts Left Over T 

EarthQuark 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Sharp & Fitch, 1980
Page Views: 171
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 23, 2004

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This distinct route lies just right of center on the lower left side of Physical Crag.

Starting from the ledge above the low-angle moderate slab, climb up and left to below a broken area with a large roof. A good cam can probably be placed back in before climbing up in to a slot with hand-to-fist sized jams and gear, before a roof is turned on jugs to enter a right-facing corner. Climb up the corner on moderate difficulty (5.7?) to top out and finish the pitch.

The overhang is the crux and difficulty may be strength and [height-dependent]. The holds are all jugs though and the apes like me will be bound to down-grade it.


Protection 

Lead on a standard rack with a few mild runouts or TR from a tree above with a directional in the crack to avoid any swing.



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