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This is Justin, Matt, and I atop Earth Angel Spire...
Earth Angel is an awesome route that climbs what must be one of the largest sandstone towers in the United States. The first two pitches are laden with loose rock, so use caution. The last four pitches are four stars for climbing quality. This is also one of the best summits in Sedona.
Pitch 1 - Walk to the right edge of the large starting platform. Climb a short crack then wander up broken rock and ledges to a nice belay ledge next to the Chimney. (5.7 ~120') Watch for loose rock on this pitch.
Pitch 2 - Climb chimney off belay being mindful of loose rock. Belay at nice ledge on left at the top of the chimney. (5.7 ~180')
Pitch 3 - Step across chimney and climb off-width crack above. Jam, stem, off-width, and face climb past one bolt (pitch crux) to the top of this excellent pitch. Everytime this pitch starts to really become difficult a Red Rocks style face hold seemed to magically appear. Belay from a huge ledge at the top of this pitch. (5.10- ~150')
Pitch 4 - Climb the left side of a pillar up a hands to fingers crack. Belay at the top of this pillar. Some say this is the best pitch on the route. The first asensionists tunneled behind/through the pillar and climbed the right side. (5.9 ~100')
Pitch 5 - Traverse up and right to a finger crack that is not directly visible from the belay ledge. Climb up this crack and then onto the face above past an old bolt and pin. Once through the major difficulties trend up and right over large chickenheads to another huge ledge and belay. (5.10- ~140') This pitch carries some serious climbing above an old bolt and pin. Send the best lead head and face climber up on this pitch.
Pitch 6 - There are many ways to climb the final pitch ranging from 5.7 to 5.10x. The described way was our path of least resistance, but there are probably 5 or 6 different ways to climb this last pitch. Climb a moderate crack system directly off the belay ledge until an easy traverse left leads to the tower's north face. From here 5.6 face climbing takes you to one of the best summit's in Sedona. Look for the first rap anchor on the far side of the summit.
Turn off of highway 89A onto Jordan Road. At the "T" junction turn left and drive past the Adobe style homes following Forest Access signs and onto the dirt road. The parking area at the end of this road has been recently renovated and the old shooting range is gone. Park, drop into the drainage on the right and turn left. Mormon Canyon is accessed by hiking up this wash. After about 30-40 minutes of hiking the wash will make a right turn (east) and the tower will come into view. From this point stay in the wash until you are almost directly under the tower. At this point follow a climbers trail with some carins up and right. Hike beyond the route's base, then double back to the starting platform. Total hiking time is 1-1.5 hours.
Descent - Rap 1 is about 110' off a multiple bolt anchor to a nice ledge. Rap 2 is about 180' off a bolt anchor to another nice ledge. Rap 3 is about 160' from yet another bolt anchor to a large ledge near the ground. Scramble left just a little to the final anchor. Rap 4 is about 80' to the ground. There is an enormous poison ivy patch growing here so if you are allergic use caution. Scramble down and right for 5-10 minutes back to your gear.
It is a good idea on the first three rappels to have the second climber down work the knot over the lip of each ledge to prevent stuck ropes.
1 set Stoppers
1 x 0 Metolius TCU (Purple)/Blue Alien
1 x 1 Metolius TCU (Blue)/Green Alien
2 x 2 Metolius TCU (Yellow)/Yellow Alien
2 x .5 Camalot
2 x .75 Camalot
2 x 1 Camalot
2 x 2 Camalot
1 x 3 Camalot
1 x 3.5 Camalot
1 x 4 and 1 x 4.5 Camalot
2 x 4 Camalot
1 x 5 Camalot Optional
Draws and Slings
Finishing up the end of the crux pitch of Earth An...
Earth Angel on the approach
Jeremiah on the sweet 4th pitch... felt more like ...
The 5th pitch
The cool 'chickenheads'... more like cobbles... on...
Andy throwing in bomber pro on this sweet pitch. ...
Sweet raps to finish off some cool climbing.
|By JJ Schlick|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 28, 2006
Back about six years or so ago members of the Pinche Tribe did Earth Angel for a b-day outing. We had six people on the summit, and even brought the Hilti along and redid the rap anchors on the way down. That was just a long, long beautiful day from finding the start to hiking out in a dark rain. The first couple pitches are shit. A helmet wouldn't hurt here. I did get bashed up a bit from falling rock. A must do for any Sedona crazed climber.
|By Alex Shainman|
From: Portland, OR
Apr 17, 2007
Funny...As I was reading the description of a scary bolt, I remembered that Joe Melley and I replaced [a] key bolt[s] on this route back in '97 (at least I thought we replaced all of them). I guess we missed one!!?? Bummer!
When in the area, also check out the awesome Low Maintenance Dihedral 11- (a FA circa the same time). Unfortunately I have so much sand in my brain I have forgotten exactly where it is (somewhere on the right/outer side of Mormon Canyon before E.A. tower, I think)...As well as a scary 5.12 mixed route we did somewhere near Dr Rubo's (behind?).
|By Anthony Anagnostou|
Apr 26, 2007
I got beta from a couple folks before i got on earth angel and appreciated the help. this is me passing on the love. random musings, in no particular order-
approach: it wasnt clear to us where the thing was. i think the 30-40 minute estimate to the turn is a little conservative. we took the wrong drainage (add two and a half hours approach-'schwacking!! oops) so i dont know for sure, but i would venture to guess it will take most folks a deal more than 30 minutes to get to the turn. we hiked up a drainage that started with a big red rounded ledge and beelined straight up loose stuff. then hike a hundred yards left along the cliff base to the route. we looked further up the wash for another turnoff, but it seemed pretty obvious to us that we had gone too far. we saw no cairns anywhere, except for a long ways down the main wash at a hiker's trail (?) to a beautiful pass.
if you want a general idea of where you're headed, from th eparking lot, you can see a white sandstone formation peeking out from the left side of the prominent red formation up canyon. the white sandstone formation, just visible from the lot, with roofs in it. no. thats not earth angel. but the little spike of rock visible between that prominent roofed tower and the main rock is. looks a long way away. remember that you wont see earth angel, as pictured in the beta photos, until you are on the other side of that formation you could see from the parking lot.
pitching it out: several people told me several ways to climb it. i think the way mountainproject has it pitched out is definitely the most logical to my mind.
for gear, i would add a black (or purple, whatever you call the tiny one) alien, another yellow alien, and a couple screamers. the bolt (leeper recall hanger??, 3/8" unknown bolt) on the top harder pitch is kinda' unnecessary, so you shouldnt lose sleep over it the night before. if you bring up a selection of nuts and small cams you can put quite a lot of pro in the crack that the bolt is right next to. the pin is ok, but you could get a decent small offset nut right under it if you brought those. above that the pro withers out, but the climbing is far easier.
and the big gear? we brought a camalot 3, two 4s, and a 5 (new C4 sizes. the new 5 is the same size as the old 4.5). we could have done it without the second 4. we generally ended up with one at a belay, althouhg we did backclean it a couple times on various pitches. the 5 was fine, but really i didnt think it was necessary. i clipped the bolt without putting the 5 in, with other gear at my waist, and it only went in one spot above that, and kinda' tipped out. above that a 6 would really be useful, but its really face climbing and stemming, and a little chimney, not OW, and you can put gear in the back of the crack without anything big. i kinda' think that burly leaders will be fine with no OW cams. more cautious leaders might want both the 5 and the 6 (i think the 6 is more useful than the 5 on the crux pitch).
rappels. on the first rappel, give the rope a big heave-ho as it pulls free. if it piles up on the intermediate ledge, you might end up pulling one of the big blocks down on yourself, or stickin your rope. on the second to last rappel, above the sloping ledge, the second rapper should hook the rope over the step climber's left of the anchors. if you run your rope through the crack it will eat the knot and jam the rope. (i guess i was getting tired..)
and the last rappel.. there is no poison ivy down there, anywhere, that i could find.
earth angel feels like a red rocks backcountry adventure 5.9+. same moves. same rock. spicy sections. varnished plates for face holds. sandy topout. if you really love this climb, you will really love lady wilson's cleavage, community pillar, etc.
the climb is mostly in the shade.
last note: no summit register, or box, up there as of 4/26/07, as far as i can tell. next party could bring one up if they felt generous.
|By Chris Tatum|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 17, 2009
What an awesome route! Did it for the first time on Saturday and had a blast. I agree with Anthony, that old crummy bolt on the 5th pitch is not really necessary (not with modern day gear at least)... I had good gear before and after it and the climbing at that bolt is kind of mellow... the fixed pin above is more where the crux is and there is a bomber purple tcu right next to it.... so ya, don't lose sleep over it.
Right now there are a lot of cairns marking the turn and the correct wash that takes you up to the base of the route. Just like everyone says... be patient and stay in the main wash longer than you think. and look for the cairns heading up right.
Great adventure, good rock and amazing climbing! Get out and do it!
|By Andy Bennett|
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 28, 2009
If you're not familiar with the area, use Bloom's book (for what it's worth) and the comments from the site...it's often challenging to find your line, and it's quite easy to get lost. Earth Angel is WAAAY back in the canyon, almost at the upper end. When you think you've gone far enough, keep going...This route is all fun and the rap at the end was one of my most memorable!
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 2, 2009
This is a good, fun climb. To add to Will's description, I'd suggest the following:
I've put together a file for use with Google Earth to show the approach described above. This map can be viewed from any perspective and printed. It can be downloaded by clicking this link:
Pitch 1 - Rack up under a large ledge at the base of the right side of the formation. 3rd class up and left. Rope up before the climbing becomes exposed under a short crack. Climb the crack then wander up and left along broken rock and ledges to a belay stance below a chimney (5.7 ~120').
Pitch 2 - Climb the chimney, avoiding loose rock. About 80? up there is a stance with a nice crack headed to the left - avoid it - and keep heading up the crummy chimney. The chimney becomes more steep and has some loose rock. Belay at a small ledge with a tree. Left of the ledge is a larger stance that may serve as a good belay stance. (5.7 ~180').
Note that while these first two pitches are not too impressive, the next three pitches are quite good.
Pitch 3 - Ascend the chimney that gradually turns into an off-width crack. Most of the climbing does not involve actual offwidth technique; stemming and interesting face moves usually do the trick. One or two awkward 10a moves are next to a bolt, the remainder of the climbing is 5.9 or so. A #5 camalot is strongly suggested to protect some 5.9 moves before the climbing eases off. About 30 feet after the difficulty eases, you’ll see a large ledge on the
left. I suggest moving right under the nice, obvious crack (which you’ll climb next pitch): there’s a good ledge here and it will make watching/communicating with your second a bit easier (10a, ~140').
Pitch 4 - Climb the beautiful crack about 80’ to a terrific belay ledge. The most difficult moves are early in the pitch (5.9).
Pitch 5 - Traverse up and right to a finger crack that is not directly visible from the belay ledge. Excellent stopper placements lead to an old bolt. More gear can be placed to a good pin. Shortly after the pin the climbing becomes easier. Traverse about 10’ right and then continue up on easy ground. There is not good pro on this part of the pitch, but the climbing is straightforward. Finish on a huge ledge with some small trees (10a, 140’).
Pitch 6 - Climb straight up from the belay on easy cracks until you can traverse left past a tree. From here, climb an easy face to the summit. On the far side of the summit, you’ll find several bolts which can be used to belay. The rappels down the opposite side of the formation also start here (5.7, 100’).
Rappel 110' to the left side of a huge ledge. The second rap anchor is on the wall to the right at the middle the ledge. (Use caution when pulling the rope, as there is a large boulder on an intermediate ledge which can easily snarl your rope. Descent will become very problematic if you don’t have two ropes). The second rap continues down 180' another large ledge. From here, rappel 160' to a brushy ledge near the ground. The final rappel anchor will be about 10’ to climber’s left. Rappel 80' to the ground from here. A faint trail takes you down and right to the start of the climb in a few minutes.
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Florence, AZ
Jul 9, 2009
Which way does this route face? It looks shady from the photos. We were thinking of getting a super early start and climbing it this Sunday, is that crazy?
|By Will Cobb|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 16, 2009
I know of several parties who have climbed this route in the dead of summer. I climbed it over the first weekend in September, and it was still pretty darn hot. Take plenty of water and start the hike in early. The route faces mostly north/north west and is in the shade almost all day. The higher you climb, the cooler it is, which is nice.
Good luck, have fun, and post a quick TR when you get back.
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Florence, AZ
Jul 16, 2009
Thanks...but we ended up wimping out and going to Paradise Forks instead. It was pretty damn hot even up there last weekend!
|By erik kapec|
From: prescott, az
Apr 3, 2011
There is still poison ivy at the base of the rappel...
|By Dustin Wildermuth|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 20, 2012
It would be a good idea to belay outside of the 2nd pich chimney because if your not kicking down rocks you will be kicking down sand. A Sedona route wouln't feel right with out a little choss. Great route!
|By Robbie Brown|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 21, 2012
This climb was fantastic! One of the best i have done in Sedona.
The chimney on the second pitch was the sandiest ball o choss i have ever been inside of! Sitting on the tree that crosses the chimney for the second belay is a great seat. Also, the "serious climbing above an old bolt and pin" i found to be quite easy and well protected. Frankly, i felt the 4th pitch was harder than the fifth. when i go back to do this climb again i will bring this as far as gear
1 #0 c3 (purple metolius)
1 #1 c3 (Blue metolius)
2 #2 c3 (yellow metolius)
2 #.5 C4
2 #.75 C4
2 #1 C4
1 #2 C4
1 #3 C4
2 #4 C4
1 set tricams
|By Caitlin MacMurtrie|
Nov 4, 2012
Approach- Seemed very easy until after about 30/40 mins, the drainage starts splitting up into many directions and gets more washed out. My advice is always pick the right wash if it begins to split (this is where we went wrong). We marked the correct drainages to take with single carins. There are several washes to your right as you get closer to the tower, Nathan and I marked the correct turn off on your right with 3 carins- (11/3/12-I have added a picture of the 3 carins above) do not turn up any other wash or you will be bush-waking uphill on terribly loose rock for a long time (not fun).
P2- Belay from ledge with old tree -extremely chossy pitch..
p3- In my opinion the crux. Use small face holds to stem up- squeeze deep into the chimney to place higher up.
p4- I agree with Robbie above, this is harder than pitch 5, but well protected.
p5- lots of exposure once you traverse right and up- once you clip the pin it's easy climbing to the belay.
RAPS- On the third rap there is a tree directly below that your ropes will get caught in, if you throw right- you have a chance of your ropes landing in cacti on the ledge(worse in my opinion..)
-on the last rap there is definitely a bush that looks like poison ivy at the base- be careful.
| || |Carins where you are suppose to turn right and begin uphill towards the climb.
Submitted By: Caitlin MacMurtrie on Nov 4, 2012