Early Wall is the broad wall on the left side of the canyon. This area sees sun early in the a.m., and shade the rest of the day. Overall, this wall has excellent climbs, but is not as popular or crowded as the Winter Wall and the Grotto, mainly because it is colder and doesn't have as many moderates close to one another.
Climbs are in three sections of the cliff:
- at the Right End, just left of the Grotto- which has 2 pitch climbs, nice sport climbs 5.10-5.12, and difficult cracks.
- The easiest approach is by the Grotto approach trail, then walk left along the base.
- Climbs at the upper left end are most easily reached by a faint trail with cairns, along the left end of the talus.
34 Total Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Early Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Early Wall:
Featured Route For Early Wall
Humbolt 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a NM
: Santa Fe Area
: ... : Early Wall - Left End
The best warm-up on the Early Wall, and one of the best routes at the grade at Diablo (that's not on the Winter Wall, anyway). Its name hints at the first three bolt placements near the crack, without which it would see much less traffic. Start on a big block and climb a finger crack followed by a mantle, then crimping and edging on the thin face left of the arete on small edges to the anchor. This climb is thinner but not as steep as most at Diablo. Fun, high quality climbing....[more] Browse More Classics in NM
Latest Regional Forum Messages
|By Karl Kiser|
Apr 1, 2008
For the record, a number of the cracks on Early Wall (both of the extreme left side and near Up to Bat) were done by a combination of Tom Wezwick, Mark Thomas, Chris Kessler, Alex Sfakianos and Karl Kiser. Rick Bradshaw et. al. may have done these at about the same time but we spent a lot of time cleaning. Rick isn't the only one to have worked on a route and then found it bolted.
|By Aaron Miller|
Sep 26, 2012
Appears to be a new trail leading to this crag and the Grotto area. Starts in the arroyo, just across from where the trail heads up to the Cave or Winter Wall. Great Trail!!!!
|By Jason Young|
Oct 1, 2012
The new trail is GREAT! Whoever put in all that work, THANKS!!! I think this trail works just fine for access to the Grotto also.