The upper left side of Early Wall has about 10 climbs, including both sport climbs and cracks. This area is sunny at first in the morning, but goes into the shade for the rest of the day. There is seldom more than one party climbing up here. The cliff disintegrates into a discontinuous chossy section not far to the right of 2-Wheel Drive.
If you top out any of these climbs, scramble off the left (east) end of the cliff easily. One could also scramble up to the clifftop easily to set topropes, although some of the 2-bolt anchors may be a little bit too low to reach from above.
A faint trail follows cairns up the left side of the large talus slope, passing some nice rock art along the way. It's a steep hike up, but doesn't take more than 10 or 15 minutes.
Alternatively, a decent trail allows one to get here by traversing along the base of Early Wall from the Grotto.
Climbs (Left to Right)
Weather station 6.8 miles from here
10 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Left End
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Left End:
Up To Bat 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Humbolt 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Rock n Road 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Schmeming 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Left End
Humbolt 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a NM
: Santa Fe Area
: ... : Left End
The best warm-up on the Early Wall, and one of the best routes at the grade at Diablo (that's not on the Winter Wall, anyway). Its name hints at the first three bolt placements near the crack, without which it would see much less traffic. Start on a big block and climb a finger crack followed by a mantle, then crimping and edging on the thin face left of the arete on small edges to the anchor. This climb is thinner but not as steep as most at Diablo. Fun, high quality climbing....[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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