Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Y-Crack Wall
Select Route:
A Dish to Pass S 
Blinded by Lust S 
Dakota Farms Cheese S 
Death of A Salesman T,S 
Eagle Rare T,S,TR 
Early Times S 
Easy Tower Route T 
Green Zipper T 
Little pine T 
Little Rebel Crack AKA Ezra Brooks T 
Rebel Yell T,S 
Straight No Chaser T 
Ten High T 
Tower Route S 
West Face of Tower T 
Whiskey a Go-Go S 
Whiskey Chimmney AKA Pigeon Crack T 
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T 

Early Times 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Schlick/Stetzer
Season: Wisconsin Oldschool
Page Views: 2,040
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Aaron Stetzer reminiscing on... You can see part ...

Description 

A surprisingly good bolted line on the far side of the Whiskey wall. Some hard moves off the deck take you to some jugs and past the first two bolts. The third bolt is a horizontaly reachy clip(hollow rock closer in...). Some crimps, a finger lock, and a good side pull take you up to some jugs and a mantley finish.

Location 

Far left side of the Y wall.

Protection 

Four bolts to a two bolt anchor.


Photos of Early Times Slideshow Add Photo
Necedah stone. Andy on Early Times.
Necedah stone. Andy on Early Times.
JJ on the mantle move near the top and Aarons toes...
JJ on the mantle move near the top and Aarons toes...
My first lead climb! Oh and did I take a good whip blowing a clip on it
BETA PHOTO: My first lead climb! Oh and did I take a good whip...
Andy Hansen on Early Times
Andy Hansen on Early Times
bolt no.3?
bolt no.3?
Jd clipping bolts on early times.
Jd clipping bolts on early times.
If you're shorter this deadpoint move could be tough. Zach Borland sticks it. July 2011
If you're shorter this deadpoint move could be tou...
Late afternoon on early times.
Late afternoon on early times.

Comments on Early Times Add Comment
Show which comments
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 6, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route! Short with very technical climbing. The sequence through this climb is superb. I took a nice whipper while trying to clip in the crux. I will get back to it soon and finish her clean.
By Tradoholic
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Harder than it looks and technical. Will test your on sight ability.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 13, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Hard to onsight for sure but these moves are incredible. Awesome climb.
By Miranda Q
Nov 19, 2010

This was my first 5.11 on lead. Awesome route! It's so rewarding getting past the hard boulder problem off the ground...I grunted my way through it :)
By nathankutcher
May 15, 2011

FYI, I saw a guy lead this on gear in the mid to late 90's. I wanna say he thought it had been climbed before him. Its probably a lot more palatable with bolts and he may have stayed more left after the pine tree. It's one of the few routes there I haven't been on.
By Tradoholic
Nov 19, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Some hangers are loose, bring a wrench. I will when I do but I'm not sure when I will make it up again.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 5, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Would be 4 stars if the third bolt was a touch left. Really fun movement anyway.
By Adam J. Clark
From: Monroe, WA
May 1, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Loose nut on the second bolt, didn't exactly have wrenches on me at the time, so climber beware. However, great route, really didn't expect to enjoy it so much.