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Franklin Gorge
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Early Retirement 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring & Fall
Page Views: 353
Submitted By: jarthur on Apr 12, 2010
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Description 

The route starts out with a high first bolt on what appears to be good looking rock. However I found the rock to be very flakey, and the first bolt is pretty sketch with bad fall potential. Getting past the bolt is the crux which ends on a good ledge 15 feet below the anchor. The flake out left could be supplemented with 2" gear to take the sting out of the runnout to the anchor, but it's limestone so it probably won't help if you were to pitch. In my opinion this route is not recommended since there is a substainial amount of loose rock just left of the boltline that I wasn't able to avoid standing on to get to the upper ledge.


Location 

Located 40' uphill and right of Jump Start past a steep section of rock at the Impact Zone.


Protection 

3 bolts, optional 2" cam and anchor bolts.



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