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Early Retirement
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Impact Zone
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Anchors Away S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Aqualung S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Barnacle Bill S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Barnacled Anchor T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Belly of the Whale S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bends, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bird of Prey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Blood, Sweat and Chalk S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Castaways S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Davey Jones' Locker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Decompression Sickness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Early Retirement T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Eddie's Arête S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Edge-U-Cate S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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First Aid S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Handjob S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Hidden Treasure S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jump Start S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Keelhauled S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Last Laugh, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Mostly Harmless S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Neptune (?) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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No Weld S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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One for One S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Persephone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rock Your World S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Shipwrecked S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Skid Marks T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Super Amazing Sea Monkeys S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Trident S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Van Idle Route 1 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Van Idle Route 2 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Walk the Plank S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wintermute S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,226 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jeffrey Arthur on Apr 12, 2010 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Ray Weber |
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Access Issue: PRIVATELY OWNED PROPERTY
Details
This cliff line is on private property. If there are "NO TRESPASSING" signs up, and you choose to climb there, that's a personal choice. Attempts have been made to contact the landowner by the local climbing organization, but thus far, there has been no progress.
Description
The route starts out with a high first bolt on what appears to be good looking rock. However I found the rock to be very flakey, and the first bolt is pretty sketch with bad fall potential. Getting past the bolt is the crux which ends on a good ledge 15 feet below the anchor. The flake out left could be supplemented with 2" gear to take the sting out of the runnout to the anchor, but it's limestone so it probably won't help if you were to pitch. In my opinion this route is not recommended since there is a substainial amount of loose rock just left of the boltline that I wasn't able to avoid standing on to get to the upper ledge.
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