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Early Bird

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Bed Head 
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Early Bird 

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: tenesmus on Oct 29, 2010
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Jonathan catching a break on top of the twin hand ...
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About 200 feet above the Wheeler Newsome/ Hong wall is another series of cracks and faces. This area is a tribute to all the guys who wake up early and get after it before work.

Getting There 

Walk up the Egg trail, passing several switchbacks. After the trail intersects the gully below the Hong wall, go one more switchback and cut up on the light climbers path leading back to the gully. Walk 200 more feet up to the base of the wall.

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Early Bird:
Boing-oing-oing   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Early Bird   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Early Bird

Featured Route For Early Bird
Greg getting into the steep and slanting upper crack of Early Bird

Early Bird 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Early Bird
Start in twin cracks in a dihedral at the bottom of the a arete, climbing three or four really great sequences interspersed with huge rests. Each sequence gets a bit harder than the last. As you get about 2/3 of the way up, there is a fun transition into a crack system to the right, setting up for the final boulder problem....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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By tenesmus
Oct 29, 2010

So there I was, at the top of Bed Head, the first line we worked on up here. Its barely light and I heard this gruff voice call out from the gully behind me, "Is that Tenesmus?" Yep! Howdy down there! "What are you doing up here so early?" Umm, climbing. "Are you going to do that line around the arete?" Its the whole reason we came up here...

I had been eying this area for several years and the timing for getting after it couldn't have been a second later. Seriously though, the cleaning on all these routes took a lot of time and was sometimes dangerous. What we found was (so far 4) additional all gear protected lines.

The Worm and then Bed Head make really great warmups for people wanting to try Tick Fever for the first time. Seriously, how many people have gotten on that thing cold turkey and gotten pumped out of their minds? I sure did.