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Early Bird

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Bed Head T 
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Worm, The T 

Early Bird  


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: tenesmus on Oct 29, 2010
Forecast:
Today

51-82°F
Thu

56-88°F
Fri

58-90°F
Sat

63-98°F
Sun

69-99°F
Mon

71-96°F
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Jonathan catching a break on top of the twin hand ...

Description 

About 200 feet above the Wheeler Newsome/ Hong wall is another series of cracks and faces. This area is a tribute to all the guys who wake up early and get after it before work.

Getting There 

Walk up the Egg trail, passing several switchbacks. After the trail intersects the gully below the Hong wall, go one more switchback and cut up on the light climbers path leading back to the gully. Walk 200 more feet up to the base of the wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.1 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Early Bird:
Boing-oing-oing   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Early Bird   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Early Bird

Featured Route For Early Bird
Boing Topo

Boing-oing-oing 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Early Bird
This might be the most fun route of the crag. Begin as for Early Bird on twin cracks, taking good but precise gear including an in-obvious #4 camalot-sized piece. Look for a left-slanting crack that turns the corner around the arete and get ready to get after it as you move around and into the shallow dihedral on the southern face. Follow this crack system up to the ledge and anchor where The Worm ends. The crux seems to be based on the seque...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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By tenesmus
Oct 29, 2010
So there I was, at the top of Bed Head, the first line we worked on up here. Its barely light and I heard this gruff voice call out from the gully behind me, "Is that Tenesmus?" Yep! Howdy down there! "What are you doing up here so early?" Umm, climbing. "Are you going to do that line around the arete?" Its the whole reason we came up here...

I had been eying this area for several years and the timing for getting after it couldn't have been a second later. Seriously though, the cleaning on all these routes took a lot of time and was sometimes dangerous. What we found was (so far 4) additional all gear protected lines.

The Worm and then Bed Head make really great warmups for people wanting to try Tick Fever for the first time. Seriously, how many people have gotten on that thing cold turkey and gotten pumped out of their minds? I sure did.
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