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Early Bird

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Bed Head T 
Boing-oing-oing T 
Early Bird T 
Hair of the Dog T 
Worm, The T 

Early Bird  

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: tenesmus on Oct 29, 2010
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34° | 22°
44° | 26°
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53° | 32°
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Jonathan catching a break on top of the twin hand ...


About 200 feet above the Wheeler Newsome/ Hong wall is another series of cracks and faces. This area is a tribute to all the guys who wake up early and get after it before work.

Getting There 

Walk up the Egg trail, passing several switchbacks. After the trail intersects the gully below the Hong wall, go one more switchback and cut up on the light climbers path leading back to the gully. Walk 200 more feet up to the base of the wall.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.1 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Early Bird:
Boing-oing-oing   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Early Bird   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Early Bird

Featured Route For Early Bird
The line on the far right.

Bed Head 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Early Bird
At first glance, there aren't too many reasons to get in bed with this one. Short. Wide. Kind of Ugly. But a wise friend once told me to flirt with the ugly girls too. First of all, they probably think you're ugly. Second, they might be kind of fun. At least this one has a wild finish!Scramble to the base and climb the wide-ish crack to a stance. Unless you're just way into it, you can use the huge jugs instead of jamming. Then face climb on surprisingly huge jugs to the handcrack. If ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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By tenesmus
Oct 29, 2010
So there I was, at the top of Bed Head, the first line we worked on up here. Its barely light and I heard this gruff voice call out from the gully behind me, "Is that Tenesmus?" Yep! Howdy down there! "What are you doing up here so early?" Umm, climbing. "Are you going to do that line around the arete?" Its the whole reason we came up here...

I had been eying this area for several years and the timing for getting after it couldn't have been a second later. Seriously though, the cleaning on all these routes took a lot of time and was sometimes dangerous. What we found was (so far 4) additional all gear protected lines.

The Worm and then Bed Head make really great warmups for people wanting to try Tick Fever for the first time. Seriously, how many people have gotten on that thing cold turkey and gotten pumped out of their minds? I sure did.