|The Early Bird Crag
Need a Maple Canyon hero pic for your collection? This is the perfect route for you!
P1- This is the crux pitch with a very steep and powerful start. The crux comes after the 4th bolt, when you are forced onto a short sequence of two tiny crimps and committing moves. You can also chicken out and do Eagle Tenders to the right and join the second pitch of the climb. 30M of 5.10c
P2- Clip the bolt between the anchors of Eagle's Nest and Eagle Tenders and continue upwards on huge holds. 15M of 5.8
P3- Easy climbing on huge holds. Only a few bolts. 15M of 5.6
P4- Easy but unprotected jaunt across the top of the formation and two gullies, past two bolts to the summit block. Belay from a two bolt belay for the last few moves. 20M of 5.0
P5- Pull a bulge onto the summit block and pose for pictures! 20ft of 5.9
Descent: rap from the 5th chains to the third chains. Then rap from the 3rd to the first chains, and once more to the ground. All with one 60m rope. This is by far the chossiest climb I've done in Maple so be prepared. The belay stations are in good locations to miss falling rock but still bring a helmet and be incredibly careful. You pass through several seams of rotten rock. If you've climbed at Maple much, you will recognize them. It will be many more ascents before this route cleans up.
This is the first route you pass, on the far left side of the wall.
12 quickdraws to chains + slings and lockers.
exposure from the top of the eagles nest