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 ADVANCED
South Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agent Orange T 
Airy Scary T 
Alias The Martian T 
Eagle's Nest T 
Eagle's Nest (original) T 
Rainy Daze  S 
Surface Tension T 
Unknown (South Face Left) T 
Unknown (South Face Middle) T 
Unknown (South Face Right) T 
Yikes Dikes T 
Zig Zag Man T 

Eagle's Nest 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 476
Submitted By: George Perkins on Apr 5, 2008

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This good crack climb is the obvious finger crack just right of center on the south face of South Rock.

Follow the 5.8 finger crack for the first 40' of the climb. The route's crux is a bulge, which is well-protected by 1" cams and great stopper placements. Fun moves through this short crux lead to a big ledge. Walk left 15' to the anchor.

The Original Route of Eagles Nest traverses right just before the crux bulge is reached, keeping the climb at 5.7, passing a location where a vacated eagle's nest is (or was).

Location 

The obvious finger crack right of center on the south face of South Rock, beginning just right of some boulders.

Rappel from the anchor for the bolted route to its left with a 60m rope to descend (recommended), or scramble down a gully to the East (not recommended).

Protection 

1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 3". Doubles in the finger-size range might be useful.
Rappel from the bolted anchor for the bolted climbs to the left of this route.
[The book mentions a fixed webbing anchor, but that wasn't there in 2013.]


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