Eagle's Bier  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  George Hurley, Bob Culp, 1965 Submitted By:  Ivan Rezucha on Oct 1, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The large, left-facing corner of Eagle's Bier with...

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Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 each year. MORE INFO >>> Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Details This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Private Property issues MORE INFO >>> The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited. Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite. Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Eagle's Bier is the huge, left-facing corner left of Lifestream and Beagle's Ear. Despite being one of the biggest features on Mickey Mouse, Eagle's Bier is somewhat obscure. Not that obscure though, since there was chalk on it last week when Luke and I did it. The lack of a good first pitch may turn some away.

Rossiter says to start Eagle's Bier in a left facing dihedral to the left of Lifestream. Erickson says to start in a right-facing dihedral. We climbed the first short, left-facing dihedral left of the start of Lifestream. This dihedral has a pin and may be the climb that Rossiter calls "Roof" 5.10, but the corner felt like 5.8 to me. There are two right-facing corners between what we climbed and Lifestream. The rightmost looks hard with little or no gear. The next corner to the left looked better, but grungy and a little loose. Perhaps that's the correct start. The best and most direct start would be P1 of Lifestream. The crux is low 5.10 protected by a bolt, but the start is a little dicey.

After whichever initial corner you climb, work your way right to the base of the large dihedral. After the initial left-facing corner I moved right on a loose ledge past a tree and then up past a very loose ledge via an obvious but sparsely protected thin crack system. There's a good gear belay in a horizontal flake/crack to the left. Save a #2/gold and #1/red Camalot for the belay.

P2: Climb up to the left of the low angle corner then move right to the main corner. Climb the wide crack via underclings and some body work. A #4 Camalot can be leap frogged. When you reach the red band, traverse right to a good ledge near the Lifestream arête, about 20' above the Lifestream anchors.

P3: This pitch is intimidating, but it turned out to be fun, easy and wild. Undercling a slot and move up to a large roof. Traverse right and turn the roof at a nice crack to the right of a wide crack through the roof. Continue to the top. It looks possible after the starting moves to move left into a V-slot, but right looked more classic.

Location 

Locate the Beagle's Ear crack system left of the scramble approach to Perversion. Lifestream is the arête left of that. Eagle's Bier is the large corner capped by red roofs just left of Lifestream.

Protection 

Medium nuts and a single set of cams to a #4 Camalot should do it. A single 60m rope will get you down, but double ropes will save you a rappel.

Bring a 6-8' piece of webbing to back up the thread anchor. You need to do one rappel from the top to get to the regular raps. First you rap to a large ledge at the top of Beagle's Ear. You then continue down, on the same rappel, down to very near the standard rap anchors.

Photos of Eagle's Bier Slideshow

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Eagle's Bier from below. A mediocre photo, but it ...	Luke doing some "body work" on P2. P2 felt about 5...	Ivan moving right below the red roof on P3. It loo...
Ivan turning the final roof. From below it looks l...