Eagle Warrior 5.13b
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| Type: | Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.13b [details] |
| FA: | FFA Peter Beal, bolted by Mark Rolofson |
| Submitted By: | Anonymous Coward on Aug 6, 2001 |
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Seasonal Raptor Closure Lifted Early at Eagle Rock MORE INFO >>>
The seasonal raptor closure has been lifted at Security Risk and Eagle Rock as of April 16, 2013. The closure is still in effect at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description The project left of Buddha Belly goes free. Climb past awkward outside corners (ignore glued on hold) to a steep handcrack, and up this to a good rest where you join the 11d. Step back right and do a hard boulder problem to a good ledge. Mark enhanced a hold at the end, saying a flake broke off and needed a replacement. It's unlikely that the route will go without it but on a cooler day who knows?
Protection 10 bolts.
| Comments on Eagle Warrior |
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By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 10, 2001
| Hmmm... creative use of the word "enhanced." I'd be curious as to the size and nature of this 'enhancement,' and even better a photo of the actual hold. |
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Aug 14, 2001
| The enhanced hold is about an 1/8" deep and maybe two inches long. It's not very big and you throw about 2 feet for a ledge off it. Try it out! |
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Nov 7, 2001
| This is an example of a modified climb, however minimally,and I would not object, as I have made it clear by describing the nature of the modifications, that people see it as such. |
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 7, 2001
| Perhaps a solution to the chipping/drilling debate is the following. One that adopts both Peter's stance of revealing the nature of the route modification without excessive policing and the general demand to put the route on a black list would be to simply place a notation line in the entry for each route. The notation line could indicate that the line was or was not natural, and if it was not natural it could indicate the nature of the enhancement. The route description could remain in place, and we would learn as much about the route as we would about any other. If it was useful, a compilation of chipped and drilled routes could be maintained under separate format. I for one do not want to loose Peter's contribution to CB.com and his insight into our more difficult lines. |
By Jim Redo
Aug 21, 2002
| 5.13b- not close to c. How about no chipping EVER. PERIOD. End of story. |
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 23, 2003
| I haven't done this route (or even tried it), but the glued on hold is hilarious. [It's] like if you're going to glue on holds you might as well go all out. I mean who would want to go to all that trouble and still not be able to do the route. Let's see, I don't really want the crux to be there so let me make a few minor, oh hell, major adjustments.... |
By Dan Levison
From: Boulder
Oct 19, 2004
| FYI - Ted Lanzano and I had 12 draws stolen off of Eagle Warrior sometime between Saturday and Monday this week. Went up this morning, draws were gone and we found several cigarette butts at the base of the route. |
By RomoFo
Jun 5, 2005
| Chipping! Enhancing! Modify? LAME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
By Scott Hahn
Sep 10, 2006
| Can someone please help me with beta for the top crux. Do you dyno? use the left arete? Is there some key hidden foot I'm missing? I can climb it to Left hand on the glued chip. Right hand on the high notch. I just can't make it that last foot to the jugs. Any info would be a huge help. Thanks
Scott |
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