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Eagle Warrior 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: FFA Peter Beal, bolted by Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 803
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 6, 2001

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  • Description 

    The project left of Buddha Belly goes free. Climb past awkward outside corners (ignore glued on hold) to a steep handcrack, and up this to a good rest where you join the 11d. Step back right and do a hard boulder problem to a good ledge. Mark enhanced a hold at the end, saying a flake broke off and needed a replacement. It's unlikely that the route will go without it but on a cooler day who knows?


    Protection 

    10 bolts.



    Comments on Eagle Warrior Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Michael Komarnitsky
    Founding Father
    From: Seattle, WA
    Aug 10, 2001

    Hmmm... creative use of the word "enhanced." I'd be curious as to the size and nature of this 'enhancement,' and even better a photo of the actual hold.

    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Aug 14, 2001

    The enhanced hold is about an 1/8" deep and maybe two inches long. It's not very big and you throw about 2 feet for a ledge off it. Try it out!

    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Nov 7, 2001

    This is an example of a modified climb, however minimally,and I would not object, as I have made it clear by describing the nature of the modifications, that people see it as such.

    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Nov 7, 2001

    Perhaps a solution to the chipping/drilling debate is the following. One that adopts both Peter's stance of revealing the nature of the route modification without excessive policing and the general demand to put the route on a black list would be to simply place a notation line in the entry for each route. The notation line could indicate that the line was or was not natural, and if it was not natural it could indicate the nature of the enhancement. The route description could remain in place, and we would learn as much about the route as we would about any other. If it was useful, a compilation of chipped and drilled routes could be maintained under separate format. I for one do not want to loose Peter's contribution to CB.com and his insight into our more difficult lines.

    By Jim Redo
    Aug 21, 2002

    5.13b- not close to c. How about no chipping EVER. PERIOD. End of story.

    By Fred Knapp
    Sep 25, 2002

    Ditto Jim

    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 23, 2003

    I haven't done this route (or even tried it), but the glued on hold is hilarious. [It's] like if you're going to glue on holds you might as well go all out. I mean who would want to go to all that trouble and still not be able to do the route. Let's see, I don't really want the crux to be there so let me make a few minor, oh hell, major adjustments....

    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 19, 2004

    FYI - Ted Lanzano and I had 12 draws stolen off of Eagle Warrior sometime between Saturday and Monday this week. Went up this morning, draws were gone and we found several cigarette butts at the base of the route.

    By RomoFo
    Jun 5, 2005

    Chipping! Enhancing! Modify? LAME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    By Scott Hahn
    Sep 10, 2006

    Can someone please help me with beta for the top crux. Do you dyno? use the left arete? Is there some key hidden foot I'm missing? I can climb it to Left hand on the glued chip. Right hand on the high notch. I just can't make it that last foot to the jugs. Any info would be a huge help. Thanks
    Scott